User Comments
What a great anniversary story!
Mick Ward - 20/Apr/14
Superb story Tony - I have noted your other photos and they are great contributions to the historical section.
Your mention of climbing with a wire brush in your teeth reminds me of the time when Mo Anthoine and myself were putting up new routes on Craig Bodlyn in Wales, where we had similar problems with moss and lichen. I had just bought a new pair of Hush Puppies which came with a cleaning brush, which I attached to a string and it did a great job.
Removed User - 21/Apr/14
Your mention of climbing with a wire brush in your teeth reminds me of the time when Mo Anthoine and myself were putting up new routes on Craig Bodlyn in Wales, where we had similar problems with moss and lichen. I had just bought a new pair of Hush Puppies which came with a cleaning brush, which I attached to a string and it did a great job.
Over the next few years I received conflicting feedback suggesting the grade to be anywhere from E1 5b - E2 6a! I have always taken grading new climbs seriously...but, it is only an opinion and we can always get it wrong! Eventually, in July 2006 Mike and I returned to climb our variation again.
Stepping out onto the front of the flake I was surprised at how clean the rock was, the black moss was gone and a clean line about three metres wide led up the wall. Chalked holds were everywhere...on route and way off route! Our ascent went smoothly, I could remember some of the holds and runners. We both found the climbing really enjoyable in a fantastic position, but we had to admit that we both also found it harder than we remembered...but we were now sixteen years older and rarely climbed on Lakeland rock. In our opinion the grade should now be E1- 5b ***.