The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).
Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use.
Rockfax Description
Amazing positions on the second pitch make this a memorable route that luckily has a bark far worse than its bite! Start at the wide crack/gully beneath the red tower, a distinct feature of the left side of the buttress.
1) 12m. Climb up via the easiest line and belay on a ledge below the sheer red wall on the left.
2) 4b, 13m. An intimidating pitch. Climb the sheer red wall to the left on surprisingly good holds to a ledge.
3) 4a, 12m. Climb up to the summit of the buttress and make a stride across to a chimney on the left. Climb this to a ledge.
4) 4a, 17m. Take the line of cracks from the back of the ledge, that lead steeply at first, to the top of the buttress.
Descent - To reach the mainland stay roped up and traverse rightwards to a notch on the ridge. Step down on to a chockstone and make an awkward move to the other side. Head up to the notch and a junction with Pendulum Chimney. Descent from here is as for Pendulum Chimney. © Rockfax
West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , I want a Pasty! , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Salvo1 | 16 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice little outing. We lead 1&2 and 3&4 pitches together to save time. Red wall pitch nice. Severe about right | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Nice little outing. We lead 1&2 and 3&4 pitches together to save time. Red wall pitch nice. Severe about right |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Chair Ladder)