Routes graded Hard-Severe are rare in Avon Gorge but rather pleasingly they are distributed evenly across all sections and thus make for a very expansive tour. With 14 on the Portway side (the road with cars) and 5 on the tow path side (the hard track for bicycles) I (Martin) have made a personal mission to climb them all.
⚠️There is some serious esoterica on this list! Some of these routes have proven incredibly hard to find (Greased Lightening Crack and Drypass were 2 particularly slippery kippers) but the hunt is all part of the adventure for me. Convenience is over-rated.
Notes
- Nightmare (S) becomes an HS when the first pitch is climbed with the variation described in Avon Gorge Guidebook (page 130).
- Dexter is a VS in the Avon Gorge Guidebook which I think is more appropriate given the run-out slab on pitch 2.
- Direct Route is only HS grade when done using the Direct Start variation.
- The Gangway is a HS in Avon Gorge Guidebook (it seems wrongly graded as a Severe on UKC and logbook comments seem to confirm so).
Not included
- Fir Tree Buttress (HS) is not included as many people have warned off doing it, reporting it to be bad climbing and dangerous, relying on ab'ing off a dead bush at the top.
- Vibrator (HS) on Railway Tunnel Walls (Page 315 in book) is permanently restricted and so not included in this list to enable you to achieve 100% complete without breaking the law.
Thanks to Simon P and Dom G for finding some hidden little nuggets in the guidebook and suggesting them. Your truffling pleases the completionist within me.
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User | Percentage | Latest Log | |
---|---|---|---|
1st | Dom Goodwin | 84% | 18 Apr |
2nd | Dunthemall | 57% | 12 Jun, 2017 |
2nd | Hidden | 57% | 24 Jun, 2022 |
2nd | steve_gibbs | 57% | 9 Oct, 2023 |
3rd | baldOrangutan | 42% | 5 May, 2022 |
3rd | Trevers | 42% | 14 Oct, 2023 |
4th | Darrell Read | 36% | 15 Jul, 2021 |
5th | phildavies84 | 31% | 6 Jul, 2023 |
5th | alasdaircavaye | 31% | 26 Oct, 2022 |
5th | rowanbrandreth | 31% | 8 Aug, 2022 |
Note: Only showing summits, scrambles, winter routes, and low grade climbs
Add | Climb name | Grade | Ticks? | Height | Crag name | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
SEA WALLS | ||||||||
Eros | HS 4b | 56 | 15m | Avon Gorge (Sea... | ||||
Nightmare | S 4a ** | 1614 | 50m | • 3 | Avon Gorge (Sea... | |||
Tigger | HS 4a | 150 | 25m | Avon Gorge (Sea... | ||||
MAIN AREA | ||||||||
Breakfast Ledge Access Route | HS 4b | 5 | 20m | Avon Gorge (Main... | ||||
Sinister | HS 4b ** | 1276 | 52m | • 3 | Avon Gorge (Main... | |||
Good Morning You | HS 4b | 11 | 40m | Avon Gorge (Main... | ||||
Dexter | VS 4b * | 891 | 51m | • 2 | Avon Gorge (Main... | |||
Direct Route | S 4a * | 1139 | 27m | Avon Gorge (Main... | ||||
Central Gully | HS 4a * | 267 | 80m | • 3 | Avon Gorge (Main... | |||
Greased Lightning Crack | HS 4a | 8 | 6m | Avon Gorge (Main... | ||||
SUSPENSION BRIDGE AREA | ||||||||
Fossible | HS 4c * | 98 | 35m | • 2 | Avon Gorge... | |||
The Gangway | S 4a | 21 | 40m | Avon Gorge... | ||||
Cave Left | HS 4a * | 42 | 20m | Avon Gorge... | ||||
Drypass | HS 4b * | 7 | 25m | Avon Gorge... | ||||
COFFEE HOUSE CRAG (RIGHT NEXT TO TOW PATH) | ||||||||
Black Slab | HS 4a | 4 | 12m | Leigh Woods | ||||
QUARRY 5 | ||||||||
Arête With Cave | HS 4a * | 12 | 28m | Leigh Woods | ||||
QUARRY 4 | ||||||||
Footloose | HS 4a | - | 20m | Leigh Woods | ||||
QUARRY 1 | ||||||||
Crumble | HS 4b * | 46 | 55m | • 2 | Leigh Woods | |||
Explosion Groove | HS 4a | - | 55m | • 2 | Leigh Woods | |||
12 stars | 5,647 | 656m | 29 |