Wolfhole Crag: A Journey to the Centre of the Earth Trail runningWalking

Bowland place names tend towards a rather Tolkienesque darkness. In the course of a single outing you might encounter the Grey Stone of Trough, Dead Man’s Stake, Hell Crag, Pig’s Face, Catshaw Greave, Fiendsdale and Wolfhole Crag. This lupine lair is the destination of our there-and-back-again quest and, if you’re blessed with a vivid imagination, you can envision dark, lowbacked shapes still stalking these moors. As if that wasn’t enough to fire the fancy, this route also visits the geographical centroid of Great Britain: the point on which our kingdom would balance if it were poised on a fingertip. Forget Meriden and Haltwhistle: this is the one, true centre.

The summit rocks of Wolfhole Crag: beautiful, clean gritstone.  © Norman Hadley
The summit rocks of Wolfhole Crag: beautiful, clean gritstone.
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Detailed description

1
SD6597950111 Start at Dunsop Bridge, noting the Puddleducks cafe as a potential source of refreshment. Set off up the good road heading north, with the playing fields on your right.
Dunsop Bridge, once the hotly-contested border between Lancashire and Yorkshire. Happily, no barbed wire or gun placements now.  © Norman Hadley
Dunsop Bridge, once the hotly-contested border between Lancashire and Yorkshire. Happily, no barbed wire or gun placements now.
© Norman Hadley, Aug 2023

2
SD6569150894 After a kilometre-or-so, go through a farm yard and cross a footbridge to gain the true right bank of the river. Look out for dippers along this stretch. Keep heading north and upriver, with the Dunsop valley getting steadily more defined. After passing a cluster of water infrastructure at Footholme borehole, climb to a junction of tracks at the 199m spot height.
Typical Bowland scenery, looking across the Brennand valley  © Norman Hadley
Typical Bowland scenery, looking across the Brennand valley
© Norman Hadley, Aug 2023

3
SD6531953575 From the spot height, you'll see a rough track slanting up and half left: this is your return leg. For now, head left towards Brennand Farm.

4
SD6509153793 Another 300m on, a fork in the track is of little consequence, because both forks reconvene. For preference, take the right as this bypasses the Brennand farms and affords their families a little privacy.

5
SD6447654311 After Brennand Farm, the track heads up to an aqueduct, but don't expect soaring arches in the style of Pont du Gard: this is a modest concrete leat carrying water across the slope. This section is the steepest so far, gaining a hundred metres of height in six hundred along. You'll gain a rising shelf overlooking the upper reaches of the Brennand River. The valley is filled with hope-inducing regenerated willow, birch and rowan scrub and, further on, waterfalls (not a common sight in Bowland).
The jungly, waterfall-bejewelled ravine at the top of the Brennand valley. In summer, it can look like a Windows XP desktop.  © Norman Hadley
The jungly, waterfall-bejewelled ravine at the top of the Brennand valley. In summer, it can look like a Windows XP desktop.
© Norman Hadley, Aug 2023

6
SD6339355941 Shortly after a couple of grouse-shooting buildings, the track comes to a sudden halt and the best you can hope for is to pick up the odd quad-bike track or the footprint of a Hunter welly. In high summer, the bracken can get a bit jungly, so follow Green Pot Clough up to its junction with Dure Clough, then head up the broad, heathery nose between them. Eventually you'll see a few white stakes pointing towards the summit rocks of Wolfhole Crag. These gritstone tors are beautifully clean, crystalline forms, worthy of a modern sculpture exhibition.

7
SD6337457842 From the trig point, follow the fence east, then east-south-east, for a kilometre to a junction of fences. Follow the south-east line, quickly veering south. Watch out for territorial seagulls in this area: this is the notorious Mallowdale gullery. They don't hold back from voicing their disapproval of intruders so if you harbour a Tippi Hedren complex, consider yourself warned.
The flutings of the Whitendale Hanging Stones  © Norman Hadley
The flutings of the Whitendale Hanging Stones
© Norman Hadley, Aug 2023
You'll soon reach a cluster of boulders called the Whitendale Hanging Stones, with a tall wooden post set among them. This, I think, marks the centroid. If you know your Winnie the Pooh stories, finding a pole is the ultimate goal of an Expotition(sic).
The post at the centre of the Kingdom. If you were expecting a visitor centre and gift shop, you might be underwhelmed.  © Norman Hadley
The post at the centre of the Kingdom. If you were expecting a visitor centre and gift shop, you might be underwhelmed.
© Norman Hadley, Aug 2023

8
SD6431156278 The fence line veers south east and drops off with surprising steepness to Hunter Hole. Zigzag left then right to get through the gap in the stone wall, then continue on the same fence line past a small pool to a gate carrying a bridleway over a low, indistinct col.

9
SD6523154890 Turn right onto the bridleway and follow it down towards Brennand Farm. After crossing the beck, pick up a track gradually dropping southward. This will take you unerringly to the 199m spot height at point 3. Retrace your steps, remembering to recross the footbridge at point (2)

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