A route that is steeped in history, and the classic of the buttress, but it is frequently the scene of benightments! Start below the right-hand end of Heather Shelf.
1) 20m. Follow the groove to Heather Shelf.
2) 30m. Climb diagonally rightwards rounding two ribs. Just round the second, climb upwards to belay 4m left of a prominent spike, level with a dog-leg in the corner to the right.
3) 15m. Climb up to belay left of a quartz band.
4) 25m. Move right and climb the quartz band. The groove above is tricky and leads to moves rightwards to some ledges. Move onto the right-hand side of the rib to the right and climb it to a spike belay.
5) 33m. A vegetated groove up and right leads to a tall, thin plank-like block.
6) 33m. Scramble up rightwards to reach the Great Terrace - a large grassy shelf - and belay to the right of this below and left of a red wall with 'RW' etched in the base.
WARNING! - If time is running out you can easily escape left onto Terminal Arete, or face possible benightment as you are still six pitches from the top and three of them are harder than those below, with the crux being the final one!
7) 4a, 24m. (The start of Red Wall). Move rightwards to a grassy groove. Climb this to a hard move right onto a rib leading to some good ledges. Belay at the bottom of a deep groove pointing towards the top of Terminal Arete.
8) 4a, 30m. Climb up a rib, passing a pinnacle on the right to a ledge. Climb the short wall via a tricky few moves to the Green Gallery.
9) 10m. Walk right to belay about 10m left of the huge gully.
10) 25m. (The start of Longland's Continuation). Climb the left arete of a steep face to a hollow. A jammed block leads rightwards to a slab. Climb the slab, trending rightwards after 6m and pass another slab to belay in a grassy slot.
11) 30m. Follow a rib on the right to belay beneath a steep slab.
12) 4b, 15m. The final pitch is the crux slab! The chances are you will have developed a crowd of onlookers descending Lliwedd, if you make it look good or are soloing it you may even get a standing ovation! The slab can be climbed direct or by trending left at half-height. © Rockfax
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