UKH

67m, 3 pitches. The first pitch is a fairly straightforward but sustained steep crack/groove leading to a fairly committing top section with some loose rock. The third pitch is magnificent; climb carefully up and across for 6 m to get the first gear. Some stiff, well protected pulls lead into the main groove which has some great moves and more than adequate gear up to the break. The top crack looks hard but commit with good jams and layaways and it soon eases.

Ticklists

Extreme 2018 , Wye Valley 10 x 10 , Coronation Street , Bristol Crack School , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

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User Date Notes
BStar 5 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Nesting birds on the top break (where this route meets Burning Giraffe), best avoided for now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nesting birds on the top break (where this route meets Burning Giraffe), best avoided for now.
Derek Ryden 21 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good climb, which the guidebook should split into two separate climbs, as they are completely separate and very different from each other.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good climb, which the guidebook should split into two separate climbs, as they are completely separate and very different from each other.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 44
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wurlitzer

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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