Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

Rockfax Description
Like its namesake, this is a big brute of a route that is a classic tick. The vegetation and unsound rock in places can detract from what is a phenomenal line and experience. Start under the left-facing corner that runs all the way up the wall.
1) 5b, 40m. Move steeply up into the smooth-walled corner and jam up this over a small overhang and reach less-pressing ground (an alternative is to move right just under the small overhang and then up and back left). Continue up the groove (peg) until it narrows after 12m, and then transfer right to the arete before taking a slab up leftwards (peg) to slightly diverging cracks. Follow the twin cracks to the terrace and belay.
2) 5b, 40m. Head up the crack just left of the corner and pass the overhang with difficulty to reach easier ground. The corner above needs care with the rock. At its top, exit up earth, trees and vegetation onto the terrace and take a belay on threads under a chimney in a corner.
3) 10m. The chimney and its left wall lead easily to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Wye Valley 10 x 10 , Coronation Street , Bristol Crack School , Cool Names , 33 By 33 , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3 , Road to lundy , 2024

Feedback

User Date Notes
a-martyn 15 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There was a serious accident on this route yesterday. Apparently loose rock gave way from under the climber’s feet. The mountain rescue team reported a 25m rope fall. Heroic effort by roughly 15 strong rescue team and paramedics to get the injured climber out on a stretcher. I hope they’re ok.
Show beta
βeta: There was a serious accident on this route yesterday. Apparently loose rock gave way from under the climber’s feet. The mountain rescue team reported a 25m rope fall. Heroic effort by roughly 15 strong rescue team and paramedics to get the injured climber out on a stretcher. I hope they’re ok.
Tuftynick 22 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Most over starred route I've ever climbed. Loose and dangerous for belayer at minimum.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Most over starred route I've ever climbed. Loose and dangerous for belayer at minimum.
Gwinn512 9 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Serious potential to kill your belayer on p1 if not standing under the roof.
βeta?
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βeta: Serious potential to kill your belayer on p1 if not standing under the roof.
JET37 8 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock throughout. P1 gets much easier after the roofs but with a slightly tricky finish. P2 has a very muddy last section - much care needed. There is now a walk-off. No abseil needed.
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock throughout. P1 gets much easier after the roofs but with a slightly tricky finish. P2 has a very muddy last section - much care needed. There is now a walk-off. No abseil needed.
Bruise Apprentice 3 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The shattered pillar that forms the left of the two cracks at the top of P1 is quite unstable. Sticking to the right hand crack is safe 5b climbing.
βeta?
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βeta: The shattered pillar that forms the left of the two cracks at the top of P1 is quite unstable. Sticking to the right hand crack is safe 5b climbing.
widdlestickmcpoos 23 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Climbing through the buddleia wasn't fun, the next ascensionist would do their civic duty by taking a small saw. First pitch was stiff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbing through the buddleia wasn't fun, the next ascensionist would do their civic duty by taking a small saw. First pitch was stiff.
Flyer from Fulham 8 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lower jamming section (4 meters) is dirty and polished. Tree/bush has been knocked downwards and blocks the roof section above. You can avoid this by moving out right, there is a peg and nut placements, but there are also some loose holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower jamming section (4 meters) is dirty and polished. Tree/bush has been knocked downwards and blocks the roof section above. You can avoid this by moving out right, there is a peg and nut placements, but there are also some loose holds.
Steve Bartle 5 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Whoever belays P1 should stay well under the big roof, as there's some very precarious large blocks above the first crack. Belaying under the crack itself means you in the firing line!
βeta?
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βeta: Whoever belays P1 should stay well under the big roof, as there's some very precarious large blocks above the first crack. Belaying under the crack itself means you in the firing line!
badgerjockey 25 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Possible to ab after P2 (decent ab tat. Aim for glue-in belay of Heil Hitler left of P1 belay).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Possible to ab after P2 (decent ab tat. Aim for glue-in belay of Heil Hitler left of P1 belay).
badgerjockey 24 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pesky buddleia is in the way of the true line forcing the common diversion rightwards for a few metres after the jam crack. Would be worth chopping this to clean the route up. The buddleia might even be prying apart the cliff here! It must die!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pesky buddleia is in the way of the true line forcing the common diversion rightwards for a few metres after the jam crack. Would be worth chopping this to clean the route up. The buddleia might even be prying apart the cliff here! It must die!
brian watson 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: P1&3. What was/would undeniably be a mega classic has such a loose sh**y section in the middle (although easy), can't be 3 stars in current condition.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1&3. What was/would undeniably be a mega classic has such a loose sh**y section in the middle (although easy), can't be 3 stars in current condition.

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High E3
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 122
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 123
Votes cast 120
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
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Not Set
Onsighted
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Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lunar Bass

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Coaley Wood Crag)

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