Restricted Access

The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the best routes here - steep and sustained. Climb a slanting groove in the arete to a ledge. Make tricky moves into the main groove. A side-runner on the right may be found useful - more like stiff E2 otherwise. Head up the groove by superb finger-jamming and bridging to bulges; just above is a stance below an open gully. Abseil off or:
There is a second pitch (4c) up the vegetated groove above and left of the belay, but this is best avoided.
There are two alternative starts. The original came in from the crack of Lone Tree Edge at an overall E1 5b for the route. The direct version tackles the fierce thin crack to the left at E2 6a. © Rockfax

FFA. Ted Wells, B.Palmer late 1960s. FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1957 1967.

Ticklists

The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Pete's Peak Treats , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - Rockfax 29 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Grade now corrected. Ignore one 6a vote for tech grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Grade now corrected. Ignore one 6a vote for tech grade.

Logged Ascents

424 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 41 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 74
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Aplomb

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Chee Dale Upper)

Loading Notifications...