Restricted Access
The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.
Rockfax Description
One of the best routes here - steep and sustained. Climb a slanting groove in the arete to a ledge. Make tricky moves into the main groove. A side-runner on the right may be found useful - more like stiff E2 otherwise. Head up the groove by superb finger-jamming and bridging to bulges; just above is a stance below an open gully. Abseil off or:
There is a second pitch (4c) up the vegetated groove above and left of the belay, but this is best avoided.
There are two alternative starts. The original came in from the crack of Lone Tree Edge at an overall E1 5b for the route. The direct version tackles the fierce thin crack to the left at E2 6a. © Rockfax
FFA. Ted Wells, B.Palmer late 1960s. FA. Steve Read, Steve Hunt 1957 1967.
Ticklists
The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Pete's Peak Treats , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alan James - Rockfax | 29 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Grade now corrected. Ignore one 6a vote for tech grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Grade now corrected. Ignore one 6a vote for tech grade. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks
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Intestate Direct Start
Grade: E1 6a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)