Restricted Access

The site is part of a Local Nature Reserve and the quarry floor below Main Wall provides an important orchid habitat - please avoid this area from April-June inclusive.

There is a bolting agreement for some agreed routes from Modern Wall rightwards, any future bolting development needs to be discussed with the local BMC access rep and potentially the landowner before any work.

The roof of the cave left of Gouffle is thought to be unstable and is being monitored by Lancashire County Council. Please take care not to damage the rock or indicators measuring any movement. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 14 February to 1 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

During the nesting season each year, climbing in Warton Main is restricted for the whole quarry including the Terrace, to prevent disturbance of peregrines and other birds. Thank you for following the restrictions. The BMC has a good relationship with interested parties locally, birds are actively monitored and if fledging birds allow, the restrictions will be lifted early and this page updated.

 

45m. Start from the grassy ledge where all routes on this slab begin. Instead of following The Third World, head rightwards to a new (2023) peg underneath a broken overlap. Take care with fragile rock here. Make a reachy move to get established above it at a horizontal seam. Arrange some gear and make a hard move up to a good hold (possible skyhook in vertical crack) head up and leftwards to the start of the Deceptive Bends traverse (a cam placed at your feet here reduces the grade to E4, 6a). No holds in The Third World are used. Now make thin & sustained crux moves upwards (skyhook in pocket at left hand) to a good downwards triangular foothold joining the crux of Terminal Trajectory. From the peg in TT continue up to also clip the thread. Now follow TT rightwards for 5m until a small left facing corner, arrange some gear and step left (using a layaway hold) then follow a line keeping to the left of the top peg in Deceptive Bends to the top of the crag.

FA used an ab rope to belay at the top, and as an anchor on the belay stance.

Col Kingshott & Cat Baines 07/Aug/2023.

Feedback

User Date Notes
CMoore 19 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Top out is slightly unpleasant but definitely not necessary to set up a top rope or ab in from the top for routes on this slab. Climbing from the bottom is fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top out is slightly unpleasant but definitely not necessary to set up a top rope or ab in from the top for routes on this slab. Climbing from the bottom is fine.
CMoore 18 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing. Gets too close to the HVS to be 3 star as mega escapable if you wanted. Probably bottom end 5c but really nice all the way. E4 5c **. Would be E5 but so close to the hvs you could bail if you felt spooked.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climbing. Gets too close to the HVS to be 3 star as mega escapable if you wanted. Probably bottom end 5c but really nice all the way. E4 5c **. Would be E5 but so close to the hvs you could bail if you felt spooked.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Followed
Lead
Toproped
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Super Snatch

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Troy Quarry)

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