Restricted Access

The site is part of a Local Nature Reserve and the quarry floor below Main Wall provides an important orchid habitat - please avoid this area from April-June inclusive.

There is a bolting agreement for some agreed routes from Modern Wall rightwards, any future bolting development needs to be discussed with the local BMC access rep and potentially the landowner before any work.

The roof of the cave left of Gouffle is thought to be unstable and is being monitored by Lancashire County Council. Please take care not to damage the rock or indicators measuring any movement. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 14 February to 1 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

During the nesting season each year, climbing in Warton Main is restricted for the whole quarry including the Terrace, to prevent disturbance of peregrines and other birds. Thank you for following the restrictions. The BMC has a good relationship with interested parties locally, birds are actively monitored and if fledging birds allow, the restrictions will be lifted early and this page updated.

 

50m. Climb The Third World past a peg and small overlap until you see the second orange rock scar out on the arête. Place high gear then boldly cross the slab rightwards to the arête on the obvious line. A committing move upwards from the rock scar leads to continually interesting climbing just left of the arête, past a peg, to a large rock scar underneath the overlap (peg). Traverse left to good holds (peg), a stiff pull leads to easier ground, the top and hopefully the rope you left in place from above. Ace climbing.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Lancashire's Finest , Turbo-Punter's Tradification

Feedback

User Date Notes
CMoore 19 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Top out is slightly unpleasant but definitely not necessary to set up a top rope or ab in from the top for routes on this slab. Climbing from the bottom is fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top out is slightly unpleasant but definitely not necessary to set up a top rope or ab in from the top for routes on this slab. Climbing from the bottom is fine.
Col Kingshott 28 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: 28-07-23 cleared greenery again. All pegs still in place. Get on it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 28-07-23 cleared greenery again. All pegs still in place. Get on it.

Logged Ascents

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 10
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Plastic Iceberg

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Warton Main Quarry)

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