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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

28m.

Rockfax Description
An exhilarating pitch with a low crux and great climbing above up a narrow corner high on the face. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 13/Jul/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , Portland Projects 6c-7a+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben Stokes 29 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: that should be soft touch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: that should be soft touch!
Ben Stokes 29 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: As Rich says, a short touch for the grade. If you get pass the low crux there shouldn't be anything stopping you.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As Rich says, a short touch for the grade. If you get pass the low crux there shouldn't be anything stopping you.
Chris Shorter 3 Sep, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: The crux is only 20 feet up and it is way harder than anything above, where there are also several reasonable resting places.
Show beta
βeta: The crux is only 20 feet up and it is way harder than anything above, where there are also several reasonable resting places.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wallsend South

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Animal Magnetism

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lulworth)

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