USER ATTENTION
Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”
from 14/06/2023
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Rockfax Description
A southern sport climbing classic with stunning moves on magnificent flowstone. Climb the fingery lower wall to a powerful midway stretch for good holds. Swing left and finish steeply up yet more flowstone. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 04/Sep/1992.
A Guide for Progress in Dorset , Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic UK F7s , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Portland , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The must do 7's I haven't done b4 I'm to old , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland 7a/+ , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Unfinished business , Portland Climbs , UK Flowstone , Portland Projects 6c-7a+
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Stefan_TR | 2 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Mid 7a+ seems fair to me. There's some biiiig spans. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Mid 7a+ seems fair to me. There's some biiiig spans. |
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Kris suriyo | 14 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WIdLb5KfD04&t=17s | ||
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βeta: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WIdLb5KfD04&t=17s |
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Ben Stokes | 14 May, 2007 |
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βeta: If you have any doubt about the grade, step left and try Spanner Eyes... | βeta? | |
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βeta: If you have any doubt about the grade, step left and try Spanner Eyes... |
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nealh | 31 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: Have to agree with Niff 7A+ and low end at that even with 10yrs + worth of polish. Still a great route though however if you think 7a+ and 7B are simular do this and then try want out at the cuttings! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Have to agree with Niff 7A+ and low end at that even with 10yrs + worth of polish. Still a great route though however if you think 7a+ and 7B are simular do this and then try want out at the cuttings! |
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andybirtwistle | 15 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: In reply to Niff... Not done it but isn't 7a+ somewhere near 7b Alan? Just being pedantic.It looks brill and is on my list for the next visit | βeta? | |
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βeta: In reply to Niff... Not done it but isn't 7a+ somewhere near 7b Alan? Just being pedantic.It looks brill and is on my list for the next visit |
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nick w | 3 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: just a great route upto some good flow stone good rest in the grove if you can find it! | βeta? | |
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βeta: just a great route upto some good flow stone good rest in the grove if you can find it! |
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Max factor | 13 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: How is it whenever I'm chuffed about doing a route I always look on here to find everyone thinks it is overgraded :( Thought being able to make big reaches through the crux enables you to miss out some of the more fingery intermediate holds, plus there are lots of good rests meaning it doesn't need too much stamina. Solid three stars - it's a great route whatever the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: How is it whenever I'm chuffed about doing a route I always look on here to find everyone thinks it is overgraded :( Thought being able to make big reaches through the crux enables you to miss out some of the more fingery intermediate holds, plus there are lots of good rests meaning it doesn't need too much stamina. Solid three stars - it's a great route whatever the grade. |
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Alan James - Rockfax | 31 Oct, 2000 |
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βeta: This route is nowhere near 7b. In Portland terms it might be a bit low in the graded list but in the Peak, Yorkshire and certainly France and Spain, it would be low 7a+ and probably only 7a at many crags in France. If you made it 7b what would you do with Pump Hitler, Ironhead etc. ? | βeta? | |
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βeta: This route is nowhere near 7b. In Portland terms it might be a bit low in the graded list but in the Peak, Yorkshire and certainly France and Spain, it would be low 7a+ and probably only 7a at many crags in France. If you made it 7b what would you do with Pump Hitler, Ironhead etc. ? |
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)