UKH

28m.

Rockfax Description
When in condition - which unfortunately is not very often - the central depression and upper cracks offer a brilliant experience that is low in the grade. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge, below a shallow corner. Climb the technical central groove to a more defined section of the depression, where the difficulties build before the final impending headwall is reached and climbed on more-positive holds. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 05/Jul/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland 7a/+ , Portland Projects 6c-7a+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Bouldering Ben 21 Aug Show βeta
βeta: After the hottest, driest Summer since 1976 it still isn’t in condition! The crux isn’t damp, it’s covered in slippery black mould on crucial holds! Rest of the route is fun though.
βeta?
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βeta: After the hottest, driest Summer since 1976 it still isn’t in condition! The crux isn’t damp, it’s covered in slippery black mould on crucial holds! Rest of the route is fun though.
Kris suriyo 30 Jun Show βeta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bj1WK1q4m3A&list=UUudGMOX3fYHtjKktRswz0Mw
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bj1WK1q4m3A&list=UUudGMOX3fYHtjKktRswz0Mw
DylanAsena 28 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Got the onsight but that's the most pumped I've been in a while! Felt very stiff for the grade but that might also have been the heat
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got the onsight but that's the most pumped I've been in a while! Felt very stiff for the grade but that might also have been the heat
MarcDorrington 3 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Hard to know what the anchor is, we went right, it would appear this picture is taken at an angle. Right seemed the best way. but there is a lack of anchors up there.
Show beta
βeta: Hard to know what the anchor is, we went right, it would appear this picture is taken at an angle. Right seemed the best way. but there is a lack of anchors up there.
beefy_legacy 29 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The anchors are up and to the right of the final bolt, you can’t see them until you move right and above the break.
Show beta
βeta: The anchors are up and to the right of the final bolt, you can’t see them until you move right and above the break.
Ben Stokes 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Rinaldo, the 6th of August was one of the most humid days I have experienced on Portland for years.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rinaldo, the 6th of August was one of the most humid days I have experienced on Portland for years.
Rin C 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did this today during the hottest summer for a millenium and the crack at 2/3s height was still dripping. A great climb, spoiled by the wet. Does it ever get dry?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this today during the hottest summer for a millenium and the crack at 2/3s height was still dripping. A great climb, spoiled by the wet. Does it ever get dry?
tomrainbow 7 May, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Superb sustained climbing - this must be one of the best routes on the Isle.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb sustained climbing - this must be one of the best routes on the Isle.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wallsend South

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Forget Columbus

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Coastguard South)

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