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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

28m.

Rockfax Description
The difficulties are split by the left-leaning, open corner in the middle of the bulging section of the upper wall. Start below the blank wall directly below the corner. Climb the fingery wall and flake to below the midway corner. Inch up to easier ground in the corner and climb this to more tricky climbing at its end, where the overhang and headwall provide a spectacular finale. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 05/Jul/1989.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland

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User Date Notes
brian watson 9 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: soft for 7b and excellent
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: soft for 7b and excellent

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sweet Smell of Success

Grade: 7b ***
(Wallsend North)

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