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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

28m.

Rockfax Description
Another Portland classic, with continuously interesting and varied moves on superb rock. Start at a vertical wall directly below a clean-cut corner in the upper wall. A hard move to a good hold gains easier ground that leads to the midway horizontal break. Pull up leftwards into the base of the square-cut corner. Climb the corner steeply to a difficult exit out right and up to gain the finishing headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 29/Apr/1989.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Portland , Spanish crew 2018

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User Date Notes
ChrisLeigh19 7 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Loose death block above lower off
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βeta: Loose death block above lower off

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ariane V

Grade: 7b ***
(Wallsend South)

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