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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

14m.

Rockfax Description
Worth seeking out for the interesting geology. There is also a direct start, up the wall right of the arete, at about 7a. Harder than when first done due to hold loss. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Please note: A crucial jug has come off by the first bolt making the move to the second bolt significantly harder. Now possibly 6c+/7a.

FA. Martin Crocker 06/May/1989.

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland Sendathon

Feedback

User Date Notes
alberthickman 29 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Large and committing move to make the second bolt. Nice flowing climbing to finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large and committing move to make the second bolt. Nice flowing climbing to finish.
Daimon - Rockfax 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Please note: A crucial jug has come off by the first bolt making the move to the second bolt significantly harder. Now possibly 6c+/7a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Please note: A crucial jug has come off by the first bolt making the move to the second bolt significantly harder. Now possibly 6c+/7a
a_radiohead_fan 22 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: this was superb. short but it packs a lot in. for a sport route it felt very memorable. guess it was the added spice of being pretty bold. 2 threads in when i did it. both looked ok but wouldnt have wanted to test em.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: this was superb. short but it packs a lot in. for a sport route it felt very memorable. guess it was the added spice of being pretty bold. 2 threads in when i did it. both looked ok but wouldnt have wanted to test em.
purple sue 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Well the thread's looking nice and pale through UV degradation already... makes things feel scary on the onsight unil you've clipped the next bolt, since if the thread fails you'd probably be on the ground. Top route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well the thread's looking nice and pale through UV degradation already... makes things feel scary on the onsight unil you've clipped the next bolt, since if the thread fails you'd probably be on the ground. Top route though.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
England's Dreaming

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Blacknor North)

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