Restricted Access
All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.
Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.
Rockfax Description
Worth seeking out for the interesting geology. There is also a direct start, up the wall right of the arete, at about 7a. Harder than when first done due to hold loss. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Please note: A crucial jug has come off by the first bolt making the move to the second bolt significantly harder. Now possibly 6c+/7a.
FA. Martin Crocker 06/May/1989.
Ticklists
Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland Sendathon
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| alberthickman | 29 Dec, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Large and committing move to make the second bolt. Nice flowing climbing to finish. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Large and committing move to make the second bolt. Nice flowing climbing to finish. |
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| Daimon - Rockfax | 24 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Please note: A crucial jug has come off by the first bolt making the move to the second bolt significantly harder. Now possibly 6c+/7a | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Please note: A crucial jug has come off by the first bolt making the move to the second bolt significantly harder. Now possibly 6c+/7a |
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| a_radiohead_fan | 22 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: this was superb. short but it packs a lot in. for a sport route it felt very memorable. guess it was the added spice of being pretty bold. 2 threads in when i did it. both looked ok but wouldnt have wanted to test em. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: this was superb. short but it packs a lot in. for a sport route it felt very memorable. guess it was the added spice of being pretty bold. 2 threads in when i did it. both looked ok but wouldnt have wanted to test em. |
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| purple sue | 11 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well the thread's looking nice and pale through UV degradation already... makes things feel scary on the onsight unil you've clipped the next bolt, since if the thread fails you'd probably be on the ground. Top route though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Well the thread's looking nice and pale through UV degradation already... makes things feel scary on the onsight unil you've clipped the next bolt, since if the thread fails you'd probably be on the ground. Top route though. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wallsend North
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Bad Moon Rising
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Coastguard South)