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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

13m.

Rockfax Description
The innocuous looking faint crack leads to pleasantly intricate climbing. A screwgate krab on first bolt is recommended. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The innocuous looking faint crack leads to pleasantly intricate climbing. Screwgate krab on first staple recommended.

FA. Mick Ward 30/Jul/2017.

Ticklists

Portland 7a/+ , Portland

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Ground Up
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Medusa Falls

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)

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