A classic route on the least climbed of the three towers. The original crack is often avoided by an easier variant leading right.
Start as for the Normal Route.
1-2) As for the Normal Route.
3) II, 40m. Follow the large ledge rightwards to reach the steep yellow crack which gives the route its name.
4) IV+, 25m. Climb the wall just right of the crack then move back left into the crack and climb this to a bulge. Pull through this and continue to a ledge. Alternatively, follow holds right to an intermediate stance, then cut back left and climb a short chimney to rejoin the original route.
5) III+, 35m. Follow the corner above to where it splits. A grey crack leads right, instead, follow the chimney on the left for a few metres, then cross back right to the crack and climb this to a roof. Traverse left under the roof to the stance.
6) IV, 40m. Traverse left from the roof back into the chimney and follow this to a small saddle. Follow easy ground left, past a wide ledge and continue up to a smaller saddle.
7) IV-, 40m. Climb a crack then continue direct on shattered rock to a ledge below the summit (abseil point). Climb direct, traverse right for 4m then ascend easily to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
South-East Face, Winkler Tower. Also called Via Normale or Winklerriss
Georg Winkler 14/Sep/1887.
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