The hardest route on the towers - further work of the Steger-Wiesinger pair - has continuous difficulties and should not be underestimated. Start as for the Normal Route.
1-2) As for the Normal Route but, at the second belay, follow the ledge right for 8m to a long crack, directly below the large roof in the upper third of the tower.
3) V, 30m. Climb the steep crack and a bulge to the stance.
4) VI-, 25m. Climb in the continuation crack, which is steep and sustained, then move right on a narrow ledge to climb a parallel crack. Before the roof, cross back left with a delicate traverse then climb direct to a stance below and just to the right of the left side of the roof.
5) VI, 25m. Pass the roof on its left then take a steep grey corner.
6) VI-, 25m. Continue up the corner and pull through a bulge to reach easier ground and a ledge 5m below the summit. Climb easily to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
South Face, Winkler Tower. Only four pitches in length but at a consistent level of difficulty. The top pitch in particular is stunning.
Steger, Wiesinger, Mase Dari, Paluselli 1929.
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