Rockfax Description
From a slight corner 2m right of the broken fence, climb up a thin seam and finish direct avoiding an easier escape to the left. Bold climbing on good rock but with little protection. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
From the scoop climb up and left to finish on the arete.
Grade is keeping direct with no side runners.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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C Witter | 12 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is gear - it's just extremely small and fiddly (two-handed RP placements!) and you may have to wander around to find it and be prepared to dig out the moss first. Not all of it is reliable. Good nut very low down, but then only a very poor and shallow nut until fairly near the top, though the gear toward the top by the hardest moves seemed reliable. Very bold but easy E2 5b. One or two moves may be 5b, though it depends which way you go. No strong line. I climbed direct from the scoop then moved left at the top to avoid the bigger holds and make the best of the rock. Stepping left and then up from there was the only one or two 5b moves. | ||
Show beta
βeta: There is gear - it's just extremely small and fiddly (two-handed RP placements!) and you may have to wander around to find it and be prepared to dig out the moss first. Not all of it is reliable. Good nut very low down, but then only a very poor and shallow nut until fairly near the top, though the gear toward the top by the hardest moves seemed reliable. Very bold but easy E2 5b. One or two moves may be 5b, though it depends which way you go. No strong line. I climbed direct from the scoop then moved left at the top to avoid the bigger holds and make the best of the rock. Stepping left and then up from there was the only one or two 5b moves. |
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joe.91 | 13 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The gear placements are blown out and non viable, therefore I feel a grade of E2 5a is more appropriate, i.e. no gear and no 5b move. Harder than Glass Slipper at Black Crag. Still cracking though! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The gear placements are blown out and non viable, therefore I feel a grade of E2 5a is more appropriate, i.e. no gear and no 5b move. Harder than Glass Slipper at Black Crag. Still cracking though! |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Castle Rock of Triermain)