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30m. Magnificent technical face climbing. A visionary masterpiece established by Bristol's current most prominent equipper and new router. The route fills the void between The Jimi Hendrix Experience and The Enlightenment and comfortably matches both in terms of challenge and quality. Climb to the "peg" shared by Jimi and The Enlightenment and dance a plumb line thereafter up the seemingly blank wall via a sequence of only just crimps and sidepulls. Make insecure moves, with no feet, a disconcerting distance above the newly placed bolt that protects the lower section to gain the break, and the half-height rest, on The Enlightenment directly.

At the break, wiggle some gear in, before making reachy moves on good pockets and crimps to negotiate the groove between the neighbouring routes. Protection is afforded by way of bolts that purport to offer a variety of link up options. Briefly rejoin the Enlightenment in its upper reaches before exiting to the right. Hard at 7c with some big but safe fall potential in the lower half

James Marshall 19/Jan/2014.

Ticklists

James's Bristol 7c's

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Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
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Route of Interest

Gates of Eden

Grade: 7c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)