A stellar line up this wall gives something of a safe adventure. Start below a bolted groove. Photo on p.§§§.
1) 7a, 25m. Climb the groove past many bolts. When the holds run out, make a move right onto the blank wall. A crucial foothold here can remain damp, but the bolt can provide aid past it. Regain the groove above and pull onto the ledge to belay.
2) 6b, 12m. A short pitch that heads up and right, past bolts, to a second groove.
3) 6c, 25m. The second groove looks just as hard as the first, but is a little easier. As with the first pitch, a step right bypasses a blank section before regaining the groove again and following it to the belay below a final dolerite slab.
4) 6b, 12m. Follow the bolts up the slab via some quartz pockets. Belay off fence posts and a thread. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An awesome 4 pitch slate adventure from the very bottom of the ‘Twll Mawr’ hole topping out on the viewing platform adjacent to the track. The route follows an impressive and awe-inspiring (read - intimidating!) line of grooves and pocketed dolerite. The route can be accessed through the Twll Mawr / Peregrine Wall Tunnels and walking down the scree slope to the bottom of the hole, or alternatively a multiple abseil if you have a spare rope. Start just left of Running Scared F7c+ by an obvious and well bolted groove.
Pitch 1 -25m (7a) the obvious well bolted groove defined by a blank slab / wall on its right. When the holds run out make a rightwards move onto the slab followed by some more technical moves to regain the groove (crux). Belay on the grassy Ledge above.
Pitch 2 – 12m (6b+) the pitch that joins the two grooves has a technical and precarious (fall offable!) crux. Continue upwards / rightwards to gain the belay at the base of the 2nd groove.
Pitch 3 – 25m (6c+ / 7a) the second intimidating groove pitch similar to the crux on the first pitch when the holds run out make a rightwards move onto the slab followed by some more technical moves to regain the groove (crux). Continue up the groove which looks desperate but climbs more easily to a belay where the groove ends and the dolerite slab begins.
Pitch 4 – 12m (6b) a change of character and rock type for the final well positioned pitch, climb the black dolerite slab via some great quartz pockets to thankfully gain the ‘viewing’ ledge above. Use a thread + Bolt for a belay and RELAX!
NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)
Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 07/Jul/2011.
Classic UK F7s , Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+ , Slate Sport , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge! , Rock cats getting strong , Big Routes , Slate 2018/2019 , Sl@teheads Sl@te , Slate Mastery , North Wales jaunt , Llanberis Slate *** Routes
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