UKH

75m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stellar line up this wall gives something of a safe adventure. Start below a bolted groove. Photo on p.§§§.
1) 7a, 25m. Climb the groove past many bolts. When the holds run out, make a move right onto the blank wall. A crucial foothold here can remain damp, but the bolt can provide aid past it. Regain the groove above and pull onto the ledge to belay.
2) 6b, 12m. A short pitch that heads up and right, past bolts, to a second groove.
3) 6c, 25m. The second groove looks just as hard as the first, but is a little easier. As with the first pitch, a step right bypasses a blank section before regaining the groove again and following it to the belay below a final dolerite slab.
4) 6b, 12m. Follow the bolts up the slab via some quartz pockets. Belay off fence posts and a thread. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An awesome 4 pitch slate adventure from the very bottom of the ‘Twll Mawr’ hole topping out on the viewing platform adjacent to the track. The route follows an impressive and awe-inspiring (read - intimidating!) line of grooves and pocketed dolerite. The route can be accessed through the Twll Mawr / Peregrine Wall Tunnels and walking down the scree slope to the bottom of the hole, or alternatively a multiple abseil if you have a spare rope. Start just left of Running Scared F7c+ by an obvious and well bolted groove.
Pitch 1 -25m (7a) the obvious well bolted groove defined by a blank slab / wall on its right. When the holds run out make a rightwards move onto the slab followed by some more technical moves to regain the groove (crux). Belay on the grassy Ledge above.
Pitch 2 – 12m (6b+) the pitch that joins the two grooves has a technical and precarious (fall offable!) crux. Continue upwards / rightwards to gain the belay at the base of the 2nd groove.
Pitch 3 – 25m (6c+ / 7a) the second intimidating groove pitch similar to the crux on the first pitch when the holds run out make a rightwards move onto the slab followed by some more technical moves to regain the groove (crux). Continue up the groove which looks desperate but climbs more easily to a belay where the groove ends and the dolerite slab begins.
Pitch 4 – 12m (6b) a change of character and rock type for the final well positioned pitch, climb the black dolerite slab via some great quartz pockets to thankfully gain the ‘viewing’ ledge above. Use a thread + Bolt for a belay and RELAX!

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 07/Jul/2011.

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s, Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+, Slate Sport, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge!, Rock cats getting strong, Big Routes, Slate 2018/2019, Sl@teheads Sl@te, Slate Mastery, North Wales jaunt, Llanberis Slate *** Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Long 13 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I've climbed this several times now and am certain that the left arete, with a bit of bridging and a cheeky sidepull to reach the high obvious jutting jug, is the easiest way to climb the first pitch crux.
Show beta
βeta: I've climbed this several times now and am certain that the left arete, with a bit of bridging and a cheeky sidepull to reach the high obvious jutting jug, is the easiest way to climb the first pitch crux.

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 45
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Entering the Neutral Zone

Grade: 7a ***
(Minllyn Quarry)
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