Rockfax Description
A big bold arete adding more hard climbing to an already-hard route. At half-height on The Wrinkle Retainer, break out left to the arete. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Takes the stunning left hand blunt arĂȘte of the Central Block. Start as for Wrinkled Retainer which provides a good warm up for what's to come. After the crux of Wrinkled Retainer traverse out left, on obvious flakes to a good hold and sling on the arĂȘte. Ascend the right side of the arete to a good wire placement in an undercut flake. Make desperate moves around the arete to gain the thin hairline crack and a very difficult to place RP 4. A sustained sequence of lay backing brings the top into reach. 8a/+
James Mchaffie.
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Grade: E8 6b ***
(Craig Doris)