Restricted Access

A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the  following routes: 

Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).

Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:

     - Tell Your God To Ready For Blood

     - Chosstokovitch

     - Error Of Judgement

Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed  due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.

40m. A reasonably direct line up the steepest and longest section of Stigmata’s most unreliable and friable. The line is independent, between The Gross clinic and Melody and has one peg about half way up the first section before a large ledge. After the ledge, the route climbs the orange wall above. Good cams in the break at the start of the climbing, then apart from a few bits of ‘it may, or may not hold’ gear, the peg gives the best gear to that point. The gear improves after the peg and the lower wall crux. Start on the tottering pillar to the left of the large tottering pillar of Melody/Rust Never Sleeps. Good cams in break. Athletic and bold climbing directly up the lower wall passing a peg lead to a break. Pull right around the bulge to a large ledge below the orange wall. Arrange gear in the corner, (other gear is available but not the best), before pulling right onto the wall and climbing direct past the small overhanging band and technical crux, to good gear in breaks. A few more hard moves moving slightly left via a big crozzly pocket, and then right again, lead to the top.

First ascent: Nick Bullock & Mick Lovatt 24th July 2018

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Route of Interest
Melody

Grade: E8 6b ***
(Craig Doris)

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