164m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Another classic outing up the long ridge 40m right of South Gully. Often called Second Pinnacle Rib ('FPR' is scratched on the rock here too).
1) 25m. Climb a groove just right of the rib that marks the right-hand side of the large grassy bay to belay on blocks.
2) 30m. Climb the steep rib above.
3) 30m. Climb rock steps to a large stance.
4) 12m. Continue up the rounded arete above, then traverse left to a stance above the Yellow Slab on the previous route.
5) 35m. As for Overlapping Ridge Route from here. Follow the curving rib to easier ground and a belay beneath the final wall.
6) 20m. Walk rightwards for 20m and belay.
7) 25m. Head up easy ground to the summit.
7a) Thompson's Chimney, S. Tackle the chimney - a rite of passage for many traditional climbers © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Superb long route. Confusingly this also has 'FPR' scratched at the base of the climb! The leftwards traverse of pitch #4 joins First Pinnacle Rib on a ledge just above the Yellow Slab, and is the only slightly tricky route-finding on the climb.

J.Thompson, H.Hughes 1894.

Ticklists

North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , Big Routes , The Long Routes , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , York University Students path to greatness , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Sarah’s N Wales Wishlist , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , No you're a punter , Jimbo 2024 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , 2024

Feedback

User Date Notes
Cati 3 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Description of pitches on the Rockfax app is really off. It doesn't match the guidebook either. P4 is definitely NOT 12m. If you pitch it the way is marked on the photo on the app, it's about 30m. Then on the app the belay for P6 (Thompson's chimney) isn't marked. If you don't take the chimney and go right, you don't need to pitch anything, it's a walk. Overall, a bit confusing following the app but it'll get you where you need to be, just be aware that P4 will be longer than expected. Plenty of options for alternative belays anyway, so you can make it your own way.
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βeta: Description of pitches on the Rockfax app is really off. It doesn't match the guidebook either. P4 is definitely NOT 12m. If you pitch it the way is marked on the photo on the app, it's about 30m. Then on the app the belay for P6 (Thompson's chimney) isn't marked. If you don't take the chimney and go right, you don't need to pitch anything, it's a walk. Overall, a bit confusing following the app but it'll get you where you need to be, just be aware that P4 will be longer than expected. Plenty of options for alternative belays anyway, so you can make it your own way.
Dialallama 29 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Large loose flake right at the bottom of pitch 5. Don’t pull on it or it will squash you
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βeta: Large loose flake right at the bottom of pitch 5. Don’t pull on it or it will squash you
KKormos 6 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky route finding on pitches 3 and 4. P4 definitely more than 12m.
βeta?
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βeta: Tricky route finding on pitches 3 and 4. P4 definitely more than 12m.
Alexander_Metcalfe 2 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Found a pink rope stuck up the second pitch and above the Heather Terrace. Freed it and threw it down. Looks like the owners may have abbed off from the abandoned sling and krab further up.
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βeta: Found a pink rope stuck up the second pitch and above the Heather Terrace. Freed it and threw it down. Looks like the owners may have abbed off from the abandoned sling and krab further up.
TheoRibeiro 27 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Much more broken than I expected. Most of the climb seems to go over or around settled blocks of rock instead of following a more solid rock face. Lovely views and enjoyable experience anyway.
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βeta: Much more broken than I expected. Most of the climb seems to go over or around settled blocks of rock instead of following a more solid rock face. Lovely views and enjoyable experience anyway.
JohnBson 23 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Beware loose block on rhs of Pinnacle. Moved significantly with a slight touch. Easily could crush you and trundle into the gully below.
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βeta: Beware loose block on rhs of Pinnacle. Moved significantly with a slight touch. Easily could crush you and trundle into the gully below.
Alex_Handhold 22 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky initial pitch followed by tough route finding. All the belay ledges are obvious so keep going if it seems otherwise. Lots of loose rock on the route, and evidence of rockfall throughout. Feels harder than a diff with crappy gear at times
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βeta: Tricky initial pitch followed by tough route finding. All the belay ledges are obvious so keep going if it seems otherwise. Lots of loose rock on the route, and evidence of rockfall throughout. Feels harder than a diff with crappy gear at times
Willkilbey 17 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Correct descent is quite difficult to find. Best way I believe is to start down North gulley and then drop into Little gulley (it looks steep but it is perfectly fine after the start)
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βeta: Correct descent is quite difficult to find. Best way I believe is to start down North gulley and then drop into Little gulley (it looks steep but it is perfectly fine after the start)
daveforey 18 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Route finding trickier than expected, but that might have been because of the rain.
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βeta: Route finding trickier than expected, but that might have been because of the rain.
Gavinwm 15 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nice climb. Easy in the grade but can take a bit to find the correct route up. Last pitch you can just walk off if you don't take the s option.
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βeta: Nice climb. Easy in the grade but can take a bit to find the correct route up. Last pitch you can just walk off if you don't take the s option.
Dickie91 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The chimney pitch is good fun, took a little bit of head scratching to get past a polished section at mid height.
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βeta: The chimney pitch is good fun, took a little bit of head scratching to get past a polished section at mid height.
simoncov 2 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P4 is 30m, the Rockfax guide (above) has an error. In any case it is easy to find belays but the description is confusing.
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βeta: P4 is 30m, the Rockfax guide (above) has an error. In any case it is easy to find belays but the description is confusing.
Alfuller18 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Busy climb! Low for grade
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βeta: Busy climb! Low for grade

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Route of Interest
Pillar Chimney

Grade: D ***
(Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder)

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