Loading Notifications...
164m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Another classic outing up the long ridge 40m right of South Gully. Often called Second Pinnacle Rib ("FPR" is scratched on the rock here too!).
1) 25m. Climb a groove just right of the rib that marks the right-hand side of the large grassy bay to belay on blocks.
2) 30m. Climb the steep rib above.
3) 30m. Climb rock steps to a large stance.
4) 12m. Continue up the rounded arete above, then traverse left to a stance above the Yellow Slab on the previous route.
5) 35m. Follow the curving rib to easier ground and a belay beneath the final wall.
6) 20m. Walk rightwards for 20m and belay,
7) 25m Either climb straight up Thompson's Chimney (S) a rite of passage for many traditional climbers, or head right and take an alternative route onto easier ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Superb long route. Confusingly this also has 'FPR' scratched at the base of the climb! The leftwards traverse of pitch #4 joins First Pinnacle Rib on a ledge just above the Yellow Slab, and is the only slightly tricky route-finding on the climb.

J.Thompson, H.Hughes 1894.

Ticklists

North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, AMC Uni Ticklist, Big Routes, The Long Routes, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, York University Students path to greatness, Easy peasy Northy Weesy, The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round, Hard Rock & Other Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alex_Handhold 22 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Tricky initial pitch followed by tough route finding. All the belay ledges are obvious so keep going if it seems otherwise. Lots of loose rock on the route, and evidence of rockfall throughout. Feels harder than a diff with crappy gear at times
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tricky initial pitch followed by tough route finding. All the belay ledges are obvious so keep going if it seems otherwise. Lots of loose rock on the route, and evidence of rockfall throughout. Feels harder than a diff with crappy gear at times
Willkilbey 17 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Correct descent is quite difficult to find. Best way I believe is to start down North gulley and then drop into Little gulley (it looks steep but it is perfectly fine after the start)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Correct descent is quite difficult to find. Best way I believe is to start down North gulley and then drop into Little gulley (it looks steep but it is perfectly fine after the start)
daveforey 18 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Route finding trickier than expected, but that might have been because of the rain.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Route finding trickier than expected, but that might have been because of the rain.
Gavinwm 15 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nice climb. Easy in the grade but can take a bit to find the correct route up. Last pitch you can just walk off if you don't take the s option.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice climb. Easy in the grade but can take a bit to find the correct route up. Last pitch you can just walk off if you don't take the s option.
Dickie91 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The chimney pitch is good fun, took a little bit of head scratching to get past a polished section at mid height.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The chimney pitch is good fun, took a little bit of head scratching to get past a polished section at mid height.
simoncov 2 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P4 is 30m, the Rockfax guide (above) has an error. In any case it is easy to find belays but the description is confusing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P4 is 30m, the Rockfax guide (above) has an error. In any case it is easy to find belays but the description is confusing.
Alfuller18 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Busy climb! Low for grade
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Busy climb! Low for grade

Logged Ascents

1648 users have logged this
322 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
High D
Mid D
Low D
High M
Mid M
Low M
Votes cast 137
Votes cast 136
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Cyfrwy Arete (Summer)

Grade: D ***
(Cadair Idris - Penygadair)