UKH

190m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great, long route up the striking ridge passing the overhang of the Gash.
1) 45m. Start 35m left of South Gully, just above a widening in the terrace. Follow a small groove to an overlap at 9m. Turn this rightwards and climb easier ground up and right to ledges beneath the ridge proper and the left-hand end of the Gash.
2) 18m. Follow the ribbed wall up to the large sloping ledge of the Gash, a feature that looks like a giant took a swing with an axe at the crag. Belay on the far right beneath the chimney.
3) 20m. Follow the awkward chimney. On the final move, your foot will slip several times before you finally get enough purchase to escape. Climb the wall above leftwards to the ridge.
4) 38m. Follow the exposed and rough ridge (various belays possible).
5) 38m. Continue up the ridge to reach a good ledge below the final tower.
6) 17m. Several alternatives can be found here, most feel hard. Climb the groove past a tricky roof. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , North wales road to ruins HVS , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , The Long Routes , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Ogwen , Mountain Rock , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , Wales Multipitch , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
stewart murray 16 May Show βeta
βeta: The chimney on P3 can be avoided. From its foot move right a short way round the corner and climb straight up a wall leading to the chimney’s top.
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βeta: The chimney on P3 can be avoided. From its foot move right a short way round the corner and climb straight up a wall leading to the chimney’s top.
youcallwefall 19 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Study route well before starting, easy to drift to far right, becomes a bit of a mess
βeta?
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βeta: Study route well before starting, easy to drift to far right, becomes a bit of a mess
GAE 28 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The first chimney can be protected with a high brass offset or similar on the left wall.
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βeta: The first chimney can be protected with a high brass offset or similar on the left wall.
gazj1986 19 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The most E1 VD route in Snowdonia? You don't expect to protect a thugish polihed chimney with brass micros. 8hrs I could have better spent counting the blades of grass in my garden.
βeta?
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βeta: The most E1 VD route in Snowdonia? You don't expect to protect a thugish polihed chimney with brass micros. 8hrs I could have better spent counting the blades of grass in my garden.
bummingham 24 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax final pitch topo is wrong. Go right from the belay to the polished chimney, where they have the line for Munich Climb.
βeta?
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βeta: Rockfax final pitch topo is wrong. Go right from the belay to the polished chimney, where they have the line for Munich Climb.
rachcrewe 4 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: New Rockfax Scrambles guides sends you up "Bubbly Wall" which is very dirty, graded HS in the CC Ogwen guide. the true finish is round to the right up a polished chimney with jammed flakes: recommended for a second bite of the chimney cherry!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New Rockfax Scrambles guides sends you up "Bubbly Wall" which is very dirty, graded HS in the CC Ogwen guide. the true finish is round to the right up a polished chimney with jammed flakes: recommended for a second bite of the chimney cherry!
cir10 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A good varied, climb though the polished chimmney (pitch 3) is hard for the grade. I wonder - has anyone taken the face to the left of the gash? The final chimmney pitch (CC guide) was more "entertaining" than the earlier one, but will will probably take the bubbly wall next time!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good varied, climb though the polished chimmney (pitch 3) is hard for the grade. I wonder - has anyone taken the face to the left of the gash? The final chimmney pitch (CC guide) was more "entertaining" than the earlier one, but will will probably take the bubbly wall next time!
THE.WALRUS 19 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax description is very poor - would be a good idea to have a look a pretty much any other guide before starting the climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax description is very poor - would be a good idea to have a look a pretty much any other guide before starting the climb.
Rich2002 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Do the HS finish much more pleasant than the VD up a chimney thing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Do the HS finish much more pleasant than the VD up a chimney thing.
Felix Ottey 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rock fax description is truly awful. We luckily had the cc guide. With bubbly wall finish this was one of the best easy routes I’ve done on Tryfan.
βeta?
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βeta: Rock fax description is truly awful. We luckily had the cc guide. With bubbly wall finish this was one of the best easy routes I’ve done on Tryfan.
TobyA 30 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The polished chimney, in the rain, with a pack on, is not ideal! :-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The polished chimney, in the rain, with a pack on, is not ideal! :-)
Jeff Beynon 10 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Well I have to say this really is a route that keeps on giving, with testing moves on each pitch. The third pitch up the slick chimney, with worn holds felt difficult, with a sketchy first couple of moves with limited scope for protection - small cam ‘might’ help a bit on side wall. It was a relief to get to the top of this without coming off. Stayed out of the chimney itself. 4th and 5th pitches a bit thin on pro in places but the Rock was great and the exposure exhilarating in places. Exciting stuff. As for the last pitch, I just couldn’t see/get it. There is a roof that runs along most of the way forwards. Checked out the groove slightly to the left of exiting the ridge below. It looked easy-ish from below but on closer inspection had no real protection above what seemed like a hard move up into the groove and no positive hand holds to haul up on either. Gave up on this in the end and traversed to the left across a slight scoop with some small holds using a quartz band as a handrail before heading into the corner, and stepping around the rib onto a bobbly face, which got decidedly easier as a line up to the summit. This alternative line to the top certainly felt more manageable albeit that it felt more adventurous and less certain. Interested to learn from others the line we ought to have taken. If there is such a thing.
Show beta
βeta: Well I have to say this really is a route that keeps on giving, with testing moves on each pitch. The third pitch up the slick chimney, with worn holds felt difficult, with a sketchy first couple of moves with limited scope for protection - small cam ‘might’ help a bit on side wall. It was a relief to get to the top of this without coming off. Stayed out of the chimney itself. 4th and 5th pitches a bit thin on pro in places but the Rock was great and the exposure exhilarating in places. Exciting stuff. As for the last pitch, I just couldn’t see/get it. There is a roof that runs along most of the way forwards. Checked out the groove slightly to the left of exiting the ridge below. It looked easy-ish from below but on closer inspection had no real protection above what seemed like a hard move up into the groove and no positive hand holds to haul up on either. Gave up on this in the end and traversed to the left across a slight scoop with some small holds using a quartz band as a handrail before heading into the corner, and stepping around the rib onto a bobbly face, which got decidedly easier as a line up to the summit. This alternative line to the top certainly felt more manageable albeit that it felt more adventurous and less certain. Interested to learn from others the line we ought to have taken. If there is such a thing.
odari 16 May, 2015 Show βeta
βeta: Harder than VD and some sections are very exposed. The chimney is extremely polished and non protegible until almost the exit, I'd give it a HS; then follows a section of face climb with poor gear if any, that's another run out, a big one. The second chimney at the top is more an offwidth and although slightly steeper is easier and takes loads of gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder than VD and some sections are very exposed. The chimney is extremely polished and non protegible until almost the exit, I'd give it a HS; then follows a section of face climb with poor gear if any, that's another run out, a big one. The second chimney at the top is more an offwidth and although slightly steeper is easier and takes loads of gear.

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Votes cast 144
Votes cast 136
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lockwood's Chimney

Grade: VD ***
(Clogwyn y Bustach)

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