Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the right-hand crack in a shallow groove and its continuation, passing the inverted V-shaped niche with difficulty. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Stanage , Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dannyy 21 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. The crux will take the unwary if they don’t find the jugs.
Show beta
βeta: Great route. The crux will take the unwary if they don’t find the jugs.
Charlotte Whitmore 29 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There is a hidden hold out left at the crux as per the definitive guide.
Show beta
βeta: There is a hidden hold out left at the crux as per the definitive guide.
Pythonist 4 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Thirded. At HS 4b move around the bulge left, then rock back right. The jams to move directly up are more like an easy VS with a single hard 4c move.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thirded. At HS 4b move around the bulge left, then rock back right. The jams to move directly up are more like an easy VS with a single hard 4c move.
howlingbaboon 15 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Looks nice and easy from the ground, the crux in the middle is tough, I came off a couple of times, awkward jam and very rounded holds, so hot my hands were cooking.
Show beta
βeta: Looks nice and easy from the ground, the crux in the middle is tough, I came off a couple of times, awkward jam and very rounded holds, so hot my hands were cooking.
andybuckley 20 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'll second that... I was talked into soloing it and found it much harder than expected. The jams are awkward to place and very greasy after damp weather, not to mention the moves themselves being pretty hard for HS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'll second that... I was talked into soloing it and found it much harder than expected. The jams are awkward to place and very greasy after damp weather, not to mention the moves themselves being pretty hard for HS.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 79
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 57
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
April Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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