Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
The angular rib then the centre of the flat face above. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
djones66 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Good moves up the wall. Thinnest moves are in the first sequence above the big ledge- easier higher up. Small cams needed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good moves up the wall. Thinnest moves are in the first sequence above the big ledge- easier higher up. Small cams needed.
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A good solo as you can wimp into Balcony Crack at any given point
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good solo as you can wimp into Balcony Crack at any given point
Pythonist 4 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The upper slab becomes quite intimidating solo... Can't comment on the gear (sure there is some, given all the breaks), but the upper slab's definitely worth doing and has a few moves to test the VS leader. Not low in the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The upper slab becomes quite intimidating solo... Can't comment on the gear (sure there is some, given all the breaks), but the upper slab's definitely worth doing and has a few moves to test the VS leader. Not low in the grade.

Logged Ascents

354 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 23 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 31
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lean Man's Climb

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)

Loading Notifications...