Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

8m.

Rockfax Description
Make a hard pull on tiny holds to reach the break and a hard finish on poor holds. f6A+ if you sneak off right. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Hardest E1s on grit , Eastern Grit E1s

Feedback

User Date Notes
WillMancini 8 Apr Show βeta
βeta: What a brilliant route fun start and super pumpy top, gear is perfect as you’d expect for E1 6a. I would give it 3 stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a brilliant route fun start and super pumpy top, gear is perfect as you’d expect for E1 6a. I would give it 3 stars.
tetley 4 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Hope those who just do the start don't think they deserve the tick as half the battle is in finishing it on those steep breaks!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hope those who just do the start don't think they deserve the tick as half the battle is in finishing it on those steep breaks!
Fiend 4 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Hard start past a demoralising finger slot (finger size dependent), probably best dynamic. Rest is pretty nice and worth taking some gear for.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard start past a demoralising finger slot (finger size dependent), probably best dynamic. Rest is pretty nice and worth taking some gear for.
Pythonist 2 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Dynamic/static with right/left hand from the obvious starting position... all good fun. Better counted as a bouldering problem than a route (i.e. finishing not worth it!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dynamic/static with right/left hand from the obvious starting position... all good fun. Better counted as a bouldering problem than a route (i.e. finishing not worth it!)
fenclimb 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the move to get to the top was the crux
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought the move to get to the top was the crux
craig h 8 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree its more like 6a, seam to remember a crumbly little flake near the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd agree its more like 6a, seam to remember a crumbly little flake near the top.
The Pylon King 7 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I thought that move was more like 6A?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought that move was more like 6A?
Ropeboy 6 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A "fierce pull" or a dynamic move to a good break. The top is tricky but not that bad.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A "fierce pull" or a dynamic move to a good break. The top is tricky but not that bad.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 38
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Bouldered
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Original Route Direct Start

Grade: E1 5b ***
(High Tor)

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