Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A good route, again low in the grade though the start is quite bold. From a block (low cam) climb the wall using tiny layaways to a good horizontal slot. Continue up a short vertical crack then a wider one, trending right to the top by great climbing. © Rockfax
FA. Don Morrison early 1960s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Stanage Popular , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 25 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyable route and surprisingly varied. I thought it would be about crimping and balancing, but being used to rhyolite rather than grit, I found the meat of the climbing was more about the jamming! Fair at the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Enjoyable route and surprisingly varied. I thought it would be about crimping and balancing, but being used to rhyolite rather than grit, I found the meat of the climbing was more about the jamming! Fair at the grade. |
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| MNA123 | 24 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Harder for the short, i seconded it and took a fall tryin to reach the brk. Found leaving the brk quite easy in comparisson, great route tho! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Harder for the short, i seconded it and took a fall tryin to reach the brk. Found leaving the brk quite easy in comparisson, great route tho! |
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| Pythonist | 7 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not impressed. I would have to leave it at E1, but with the note that it's a damned easy one. The crux is low enough not to get scared about the (even) lower gear, and then it's all over. Can't see why this gets 2*, the same as M Variant Direct - it could lose one easily. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not impressed. I would have to leave it at E1, but with the note that it's a damned easy one. The crux is low enough not to get scared about the (even) lower gear, and then it's all over. Can't see why this gets 2*, the same as M Variant Direct - it could lose one easily. |
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| Ram MkiV | 22 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: worth E1 - nice 5bish moves to reach and then leave friend slot | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: worth E1 - nice 5bish moves to reach and then leave friend slot |
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| ericinbristol | 24 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Relax on that first bit and it really isn't that hard technically, and as soon as you make yourself make the first moves, there's bomber gear. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Relax on that first bit and it really isn't that hard technically, and as soon as you make yourself make the first moves, there's bomber gear. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 25 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Scary! I didn't take enough gear, and had to really run out the top half of the route, which is supposed to be well-protected! :/ | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Scary! I didn't take enough gear, and had to really run out the top half of the route, which is supposed to be well-protected! :/ |
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| SteveC | 19 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. One daunting move but after that it's thought-provoking, sustained but not hard (5a) and well-protected. 3 stars | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. One daunting move but after that it's thought-provoking, sustained but not hard (5a) and well-protected. 3 stars |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Dead Banana Crack
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)