Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
A good varied route. Climb the edge of the slab to the right end of the overhangs and pull through at a short vertical crack. Step left into an open groove and bridge up this to a rounded exit. © Rockfax

FA. Colin Kirkus 1934.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Kirkus Routes , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Stanage Popular , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , Colin Kirkus' routes , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , E1's , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
leon 23 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: is it harder than fying buttress? i might try flying buttress then. rekon the pull over the overhang is definately 5b & took me a while to work out. once you're over the overhang though i thought it was too easy to warrant "a bold finale" .
βeta?
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βeta: is it harder than fying buttress? i might try flying buttress then. rekon the pull over the overhang is definately 5b & took me a while to work out. once you're over the overhang though i thought it was too easy to warrant "a bold finale" .
Paul Tomo 10 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The hardest move was getting onto the ledge after the overhang, from then on the padding up the wall was quite easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The hardest move was getting onto the ledge after the overhang, from then on the padding up the wall was quite easy.
MNA123 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Trying to get back to E1 so i spent plenty of time falling off the crux, i was too busy trying to lunge up and right for the good hold i didn't think about going left then right it's much easier. I had a little slip on the top part and i think a piece of poo came out :-0
Show beta
βeta: Trying to get back to E1 so i spent plenty of time falling off the crux, i was too busy trying to lunge up and right for the good hold i didn't think about going left then right it's much easier. I had a little slip on the top part and i think a piece of poo came out :-0
Si dH 4 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First E1 :) I found the crux pretty hard, solid 5b but ok after I'd stood around working it out and getting rid of in-the-way cams :) Top-out was fine in comparison, but then I am good at "exposed padding", so maybe I only get HVS :)
βeta?
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βeta: First E1 :) I found the crux pretty hard, solid 5b but ok after I'd stood around working it out and getting rid of in-the-way cams :) Top-out was fine in comparison, but then I am good at "exposed padding", so maybe I only get HVS :)
Pythonist 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It is an admittedly fun lower slab with only one real move to gain the stance at the bottom of the scoop, but I was the most gripped I've been in recent times, even with 4c padding on the upper section. A great thriller, and a good climb. (Oh, and doing a hanging belay at the top's quite fun too!)
βeta?
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βeta: It is an admittedly fun lower slab with only one real move to gain the stance at the bottom of the scoop, but I was the most gripped I've been in recent times, even with 4c padding on the upper section. A great thriller, and a good climb. (Oh, and doing a hanging belay at the top's quite fun too!)
Jus 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: One hard move getting estabished on the upper wall.
βeta?
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βeta: One hard move getting estabished on the upper wall.
Neil Morbey 9 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A very nice climb- not that bold really- with help of a size 2 friend. Initial slab is tricky, The crux is thrilling and the upper bulges are a delight.
Show beta
βeta: A very nice climb- not that bold really- with help of a size 2 friend. Initial slab is tricky, The crux is thrilling and the upper bulges are a delight.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 121
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 117
Votes cast 106
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Traverse

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wildcat)

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