Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
From the centre of the wall, trend right delicately with hard moves to reach a shallow crack and then easier ground. Pleasantly technical climbing protected by small cams. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Pallet 1963.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Eastern Grit E1s

Feedback

User Date Notes
Droyd 2 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Black totem in the right of the break seemed not totally shite, rest v sandy
Show beta
βeta: Black totem in the right of the break seemed not totally shite, rest v sandy
lukegorman 19 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rested after second break. Then fell from above second break. Ripped the two cams out of the higher break. Lower break cam and nut caught me. Cheers Wendy's for the catch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rested after second break. Then fell from above second break. Ripped the two cams out of the higher break. Lower break cam and nut caught me. Cheers Wendy's for the catch
leon 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: the friend placements scared me, though I rekon they would hold. i didn't find this a soft touch either but then again i am a baby at this grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the friend placements scared me, though I rekon they would hold. i didn't find this a soft touch either but then again i am a baby at this grade.
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 5 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Really not E1 if you're using a bouldering mat! Quite steady moves and very reasonale for an onsight solo-able E1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really not E1 if you're using a bouldering mat! Quite steady moves and very reasonale for an onsight solo-able E1
Pythonist 13 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It is a bit of a soft touch, but depends on how much the dodgy friends scare you. Personally, I think the crux is one move lower than implied by the description. A mate backed off itthinking the upper slab was the hard bit. I got there, and thought that the move past the gear to stand in the break was the crux, meaning a not-horrible fall if you do come off it! Easy E1 definitely.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is a bit of a soft touch, but depends on how much the dodgy friends scare you. Personally, I think the crux is one move lower than implied by the description. A mate backed off itthinking the upper slab was the hard bit. I got there, and thought that the move past the gear to stand in the break was the crux, meaning a not-horrible fall if you do come off it! Easy E1 definitely.
The Pylon King 26 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: very small friends essential!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: very small friends essential!
Jon Greengrass 1 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: My first E1 Hooray!! Soloed as well!(gullible me) A bit of a soft touch. Technical moves to the cracky bit but they felt relatively safe above a bouldering mat. Pleasant climbing above gives it a routey air.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first E1 Hooray!! Soloed as well!(gullible me) A bit of a soft touch. Technical moves to the cracky bit but they felt relatively safe above a bouldering mat. Pleasant climbing above gives it a routey air.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 108
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 106
Votes cast 100
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Intestate

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)

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