There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
From the centre of the wall, trend right delicately with hard moves to reach a shallow crack and then easier ground. Pleasantly technical climbing protected by small cams. © Rockfax
FA. Brian Pallet 1963.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Eastern Grit E1s
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Droyd | 2 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Black totem in the right of the break seemed not totally shite, rest v sandy | ||
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βeta: Black totem in the right of the break seemed not totally shite, rest v sandy |
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lukegorman | 19 Jan, 2020 |
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βeta: Rested after second break. Then fell from above second break. Ripped the two cams out of the higher break. Lower break cam and nut caught me. Cheers Wendy's for the catch | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Rested after second break. Then fell from above second break. Ripped the two cams out of the higher break. Lower break cam and nut caught me. Cheers Wendy's for the catch |
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leon | 24 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: the friend placements scared me, though I rekon they would hold. i didn't find this a soft touch either but then again i am a baby at this grade. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: the friend placements scared me, though I rekon they would hold. i didn't find this a soft touch either but then again i am a baby at this grade. |
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Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 5 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Really not E1 if you're using a bouldering mat! Quite steady moves and very reasonale for an onsight solo-able E1 | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Really not E1 if you're using a bouldering mat! Quite steady moves and very reasonale for an onsight solo-able E1 |
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Pythonist | 13 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: It is a bit of a soft touch, but depends on how much the dodgy friends scare you. Personally, I think the crux is one move lower than implied by the description. A mate backed off itthinking the upper slab was the hard bit. I got there, and thought that the move past the gear to stand in the break was the crux, meaning a not-horrible fall if you do come off it! Easy E1 definitely. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It is a bit of a soft touch, but depends on how much the dodgy friends scare you. Personally, I think the crux is one move lower than implied by the description. A mate backed off itthinking the upper slab was the hard bit. I got there, and thought that the move past the gear to stand in the break was the crux, meaning a not-horrible fall if you do come off it! Easy E1 definitely. |
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The Pylon King | 26 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: very small friends essential! | βeta? | |
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βeta: very small friends essential! |
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Jon Greengrass | 1 Jul, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: My first E1 Hooray!! Soloed as well!(gullible me) A bit of a soft touch. Technical moves to the cracky bit but they felt relatively safe above a bouldering mat. Pleasant climbing above gives it a routey air. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: My first E1 Hooray!! Soloed as well!(gullible me) A bit of a soft touch. Technical moves to the cracky bit but they felt relatively safe above a bouldering mat. Pleasant climbing above gives it a routey air. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)