Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Exhilarating climbing on large holds. Climb the slab, build a safety net then head across the centre of the roof, first right then back left, with heel-hooks and some brute force. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Grey 1966.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , World Graded List , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , CUMC Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , ICAS Climbing Club , Caff's Cool E1s List , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Flying Buttress Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Stanage Wishlist , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Hobo Unicorn Essentials , Memorable Climbs , Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade , On Peak Rock , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , EUMC - Must do climbs , Libby Peter's HVS Hit List , SUMC's Steep Testpieces , York University Students path to greatness , Outragous Positions , Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets. , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , 2021 Ticklist , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Peak bouldering 2021 6b - 7b+ and a bit of trad , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , 2024 , The Wishlist Challenge , LSMC to do , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Cristmas Trad Plan , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Rock Wannabes , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Peak grit , Eastern Grit E1s , The Eal List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , Stanage 3 star E1s , E1's , Grit season 23/24 , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Climbs I did that Rory couldn't before he got good, and that he hasn't tried since , The Unattainable SUMC Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jack Barrett-Kelly 29 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Horrifying. Would lead.
βeta?
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βeta: Horrifying. Would lead.
193 18 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: for historical interest At one stage in the life of this climb employed a figure of 8 abseil device in break reached from the cheese block for protection .
βeta?
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βeta: for historical interest At one stage in the life of this climb employed a figure of 8 abseil device in break reached from the cheese block for protection .
Joel Sims 10 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyed this one, not as scary as it looks. Really hard HVS.
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βeta: Enjoyed this one, not as scary as it looks. Really hard HVS.
Daniel Heber 25 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Super impressed that Kieran lead this! very pumpy moves over the lip!
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βeta: Super impressed that Kieran lead this! very pumpy moves over the lip!
dmason1992 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Watched a fair bit of YouTube beta for this. Watched some chavs fail it (for the best due to dubious belay technique) then surprised myself by flashing it. Epic climb
βeta?
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βeta: Watched a fair bit of YouTube beta for this. Watched some chavs fail it (for the best due to dubious belay technique) then surprised myself by flashing it. Epic climb
RobHearnden 23 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Does it really matter if its E1 or HVS? Good fun.
βeta?
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βeta: Does it really matter if its E1 or HVS? Good fun.
colinwww 14 Jul, 2009 Show βeta
βeta: This was graded HVS when I first climbed it. But definately worth an E point for anyone who leads it. It saps enegy fast and my forearms were like stone afterwards. Think it warrants E1 as there's only one way to go if your arms blow. I have talked to a climber who broke his shoulder falling onto the slab below so "safe as houses" is probably not the best way to describe it. Agree with the comment below - it is more about eyeing the route from the ground and thinking - "do I like the look of that?". Enjoy.
βeta?
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βeta: This was graded HVS when I first climbed it. But definately worth an E point for anyone who leads it. It saps enegy fast and my forearms were like stone afterwards. Think it warrants E1 as there's only one way to go if your arms blow. I have talked to a climber who broke his shoulder falling onto the slab below so "safe as houses" is probably not the best way to describe it. Agree with the comment below - it is more about eyeing the route from the ground and thinking - "do I like the look of that?". Enjoy.
craig d 2 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: For off width: That is not the case at all. The average climbing grade in the UK is way below E1. It just winds me up when routes get upgraded all the time. When i started climbing 25 years ago you had to work hard to climb extreme and now it seems people can do it easily by upgrading routes. Three pebble slab to quote the usual suspect for overgrading on this website is never E1. Neil Binns quotes definitive E1's such as left unconquerable and strapiombante (the first is easy for the grade, the 2nd is HVS). It is not people leading easy E1's that i have a problem with it is people fooling themselves into thinking they can climb harder than they can by constant upgrading.
βeta?
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βeta: For off width: That is not the case at all. The average climbing grade in the UK is way below E1. It just winds me up when routes get upgraded all the time. When i started climbing 25 years ago you had to work hard to climb extreme and now it seems people can do it easily by upgrading routes. Three pebble slab to quote the usual suspect for overgrading on this website is never E1. Neil Binns quotes definitive E1's such as left unconquerable and strapiombante (the first is easy for the grade, the 2nd is HVS). It is not people leading easy E1's that i have a problem with it is people fooling themselves into thinking they can climb harder than they can by constant upgrading.
Offwidth 2 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: For craig: anyone leading easy E1's at their limit is a punter. Probably a tough VS solo for solid extreme leaders doing it for their nth time ;-)
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βeta: For craig: anyone leading easy E1's at their limit is a punter. Probably a tough VS solo for solid extreme leaders doing it for their nth time ;-)
craig d 21 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Anyone who thinks this is E1 is a punter. Please stop overgrading. This route has always been a thuggy, well protected HVS.
βeta?
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βeta: Anyone who thinks this is E1 is a punter. Please stop overgrading. This route has always been a thuggy, well protected HVS.
Neil Binns 17 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Can't see how this can be possibly be HVS. Strenuous to get the gear in at the lip. I think this is as hard as plently of definitive E1s. e.g. Left Unconquerable, Strapiombante
βeta?
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βeta: Can't see how this can be possibly be HVS. Strenuous to get the gear in at the lip. I think this is as hard as plently of definitive E1s. e.g. Left Unconquerable, Strapiombante
jl100 4 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome Route, over far too soon, but totally brilliant. HVS 5B, it would have made a nice first E1 though.
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βeta: Awesome Route, over far too soon, but totally brilliant. HVS 5B, it would have made a nice first E1 though.
Al Evans 30 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It may be E1 for the short, just because getting the first friend runner is a way long stretch. Heel hooking at its ultimate, probably easier than Sloth.
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βeta: It may be E1 for the short, just because getting the first friend runner is a way long stretch. Heel hooking at its ultimate, probably easier than Sloth.
micros are cool 29 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: My first E1, that was until i heard it was down graded - gutted! not as hard as it looks, strong but nice jugs.
βeta?
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βeta: My first E1, that was until i heard it was down graded - gutted! not as hard as it looks, strong but nice jugs.
Si dH 11 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I have now tried anf failed twice on this despite being pretty strong in the arms and climbing E1 reasonably consistently at the moment. I just find it completely desperate at the break. Do all these people claiming HVS have a clipstick for mwhich to place their cams or what? Do the yjust stick them in any old how and keep climbing? Its not a particularly friendly break for placing things quick, being polished to buggery and out-of-sight while you hang to place them...
βeta?
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βeta: I have now tried anf failed twice on this despite being pretty strong in the arms and climbing E1 reasonably consistently at the moment. I just find it completely desperate at the break. Do all these people claiming HVS have a clipstick for mwhich to place their cams or what? Do the yjust stick them in any old how and keep climbing? Its not a particularly friendly break for placing things quick, being polished to buggery and out-of-sight while you hang to place them...
MeMeMe 23 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climb! One long reach to get a hand on the lip which would be pretty desperate if you are short, but from there great gear and huge holds. Easy for the grade as long as you have your bold lead head on. After all these years looking at it and thinking I'd probably never be able to climb it I was surprised it didn't put up more of a fight. Very chuffed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely climb! One long reach to get a hand on the lip which would be pretty desperate if you are short, but from there great gear and huge holds. Easy for the grade as long as you have your bold lead head on. After all these years looking at it and thinking I'd probably never be able to climb it I was surprised it didn't put up more of a fight. Very chuffed.
The Pylon King 22 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Great Route E0 5b
βeta?
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βeta: Great Route E0 5b
stow 22 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Mmmm. Big roof but big holds. Reminds me of the Gunks!
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βeta: Mmmm. Big roof but big holds. Reminds me of the Gunks!
Robo 8 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: What an awesome awesome route. Do it and you will feel like a god as you sit belaying atop the summit block.
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βeta: What an awesome awesome route. Do it and you will feel like a god as you sit belaying atop the summit block.
Charles Arthur 1 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: HVS, surely. Easier for the tall, but the holds are huge - loaves of bread was the phrase Grimer used, I think. Marvellous.
βeta?
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βeta: HVS, surely. Easier for the tall, but the holds are huge - loaves of bread was the phrase Grimer used, I think. Marvellous.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 563
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 507
Votes cast 479
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dead Banana Crack

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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