Rockfax Description
Elegant climbing up the arete left of the big corner. The lower part is technical as far as a short vertical crack. Beefy moves on spaced holds lead up the short wall to a final shallow groove. © Rockfax
FA. Alan Clarke 1965.
Ticklists
Stanage: My Favourite Five , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , 2020/21 Trips , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LD's next grit trip(s) , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Loz’ Peaks Wishlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Mattwaltno123 | 15 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Big send | βeta? | |
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βeta: Big send |
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| colegosney | 9 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: quite a big loose block on the top, in line with master of disguise | βeta? | |
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βeta: quite a big loose block on the top, in line with master of disguise |
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| Montdawg | 16 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Pumpy for the leader, still a challenge for the second! Absolutely awesome route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pumpy for the leader, still a challenge for the second! Absolutely awesome route |
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| KarenW | 24 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Have always avoided routes with reachy symbol, but glad I didn't avoid this one - very good, but why does it get a reachy symbol - ok for me at 5 foot 2 | ||
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βeta: Have always avoided routes with reachy symbol, but glad I didn't avoid this one - very good, but why does it get a reachy symbol - ok for me at 5 foot 2 |
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| Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 5 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Lovely! One of the best routes of this grade in the area... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lovely! One of the best routes of this grade in the area... |
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| Richard Hession | 31 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Took a nice fall on to a cam in the break which kept me about 5" off the deck after rope stretch due to faffing around with a big nut in the vertical crack and cranking my left hand on that slopey ledge for too long! Nailed it on the 2nd attempt though :) | ||
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βeta: Took a nice fall on to a cam in the break which kept me about 5" off the deck after rope stretch due to faffing around with a big nut in the vertical crack and cranking my left hand on that slopey ledge for too long! Nailed it on the 2nd attempt though :) |
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| Monk | 26 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: I found this hard. Maybe it's because I am short? The initial "crux" moves were really nice and not too hard. However I really struggled with the long reaches higher up. Excellent route though but very pumpy. | ||
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βeta: I found this hard. Maybe it's because I am short? The initial "crux" moves were really nice and not too hard. However I really struggled with the long reaches higher up. Excellent route though but very pumpy. |
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| Chris the Tall | 29 May, 2003 |
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βeta: Try to place the gear in the vertical crack quickly or you may find you haven't the strength to do the crux! | ||
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βeta: Try to place the gear in the vertical crack quickly or you may find you haven't the strength to do the crux! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooksPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Great Buttress
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dovestone Tor)