Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Elegant climbing up the arete left of the big corner. The lower part is technical as far as a short vertical crack. Beefy moves on spaced holds lead up the short wall to a final shallow groove. © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke 1965.

Ticklists

Stanage: My Favourite Five , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , 2020/21 Trips , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LD's next grit trip(s) , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Loz’ Peaks Wishlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak

Feedback

User Date Notes
CJHudson 17 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Easier for tall people
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easier for tall people
Mattwaltno123 15 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Big send
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big send
colegosney 9 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: quite a big loose block on the top, in line with master of disguise
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: quite a big loose block on the top, in line with master of disguise
Montdawg 16 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pumpy for the leader, still a challenge for the second! Absolutely awesome route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pumpy for the leader, still a challenge for the second! Absolutely awesome route
KarenW 24 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Have always avoided routes with reachy symbol, but glad I didn't avoid this one - very good, but why does it get a reachy symbol - ok for me at 5 foot 2
Show beta
βeta: Have always avoided routes with reachy symbol, but glad I didn't avoid this one - very good, but why does it get a reachy symbol - ok for me at 5 foot 2
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 5 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely! One of the best routes of this grade in the area...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely! One of the best routes of this grade in the area...
Richard Hession 31 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Took a nice fall on to a cam in the break which kept me about 5" off the deck after rope stretch due to faffing around with a big nut in the vertical crack and cranking my left hand on that slopey ledge for too long! Nailed it on the 2nd attempt though :)
Show beta
βeta: Took a nice fall on to a cam in the break which kept me about 5" off the deck after rope stretch due to faffing around with a big nut in the vertical crack and cranking my left hand on that slopey ledge for too long! Nailed it on the 2nd attempt though :)
Monk 26 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I found this hard. Maybe it's because I am short? The initial "crux" moves were really nice and not too hard. However I really struggled with the long reaches higher up. Excellent route though but very pumpy.
Show beta
βeta: I found this hard. Maybe it's because I am short? The initial "crux" moves were really nice and not too hard. However I really struggled with the long reaches higher up. Excellent route though but very pumpy.
Chris the Tall 29 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Try to place the gear in the vertical crack quickly or you may find you haven't the strength to do the crux!
Show beta
βeta: Try to place the gear in the vertical crack quickly or you may find you haven't the strength to do the crux!

Logged Ascents

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High E1
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Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
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Votes cast 376
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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Mid 5a
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Votes cast 362
Votes cast 356
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Valkyrie

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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