Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

18m.

Rockfax Description
Up the slippery right-angled corner by laybacking or jamming. Finish direct easily, or up the steep arete just right - VS 4c. © Rockfax

FA. Henry Bishop et al early 1910s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Puttrell's Progress , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , ULMC Classics , CUMC Ticklist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stan , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Pottering with Puttrell at Stanage , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Best Forgotten Art , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andi_FJ 30 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First Footholds are a bit polished. Very good pro with a set of nuts. Very good intro in easy trad @ Stanage
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First Footholds are a bit polished. Very good pro with a set of nuts. Very good intro in easy trad @ Stanage
Si dH 11 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Didnt think there was one particular crux to be honest, found it pretty strenuous as HSs go but then I ended up smearing off the side-wall rather tha nuse the polished holds, whihc probably didnt help in that repsect. I dont thin kthis route is worth any stars at all to be honest, altho it is a nice line.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Didnt think there was one particular crux to be honest, found it pretty strenuous as HSs go but then I ended up smearing off the side-wall rather tha nuse the polished holds, whihc probably didnt help in that repsect. I dont thin kthis route is worth any stars at all to be honest, altho it is a nice line.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 223
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 211
Votes cast 201
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
P.M.C.1

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Curbar Edge)

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