There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Up the slippery right-angled corner by laybacking or jamming. Finish direct easily, or up the steep arete just right - VS 4c. © Rockfax
FA. Henry Bishop et al early 1910s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Puttrell's Progress , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , ULMC Classics , CUMC Ticklist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stan , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Pottering with Puttrell at Stanage , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , Pre-WW1 Stanage , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Best Forgotten Art , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Andi_FJ | 30 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: First Footholds are a bit polished. Very good pro with a set of nuts. Very good intro in easy trad @ Stanage | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First Footholds are a bit polished. Very good pro with a set of nuts. Very good intro in easy trad @ Stanage |
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Si dH | 11 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Didnt think there was one particular crux to be honest, found it pretty strenuous as HSs go but then I ended up smearing off the side-wall rather tha nuse the polished holds, whihc probably didnt help in that repsect. I dont thin kthis route is worth any stars at all to be honest, altho it is a nice line. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Didnt think there was one particular crux to be honest, found it pretty strenuous as HSs go but then I ended up smearing off the side-wall rather tha nuse the polished holds, whihc probably didnt help in that repsect. I dont thin kthis route is worth any stars at all to be honest, altho it is a nice line. |
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Grade: HS 4a ***
(Froggatt Edge)