16m.
Rockfax Description
Intimidating climbing up the jutting prow. Climb the lower wall to jams below the overhang, up this with difficulty (good small wire up and left) to reach a ramp. Hand traverse rightwards up this to gain the arete and a sprint finale. © Rockfax
FA. Ed Drummond 1975.
Ticklists
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Big trad grit list , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| north country boy | 14 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Pretty steady for E4, but very pumpy! can get a good rest with leg on ledge before roof and a toe hook/jam! Then pull over lip (forget the Rp in flake!) and just keep cranking! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pretty steady for E4, but very pumpy! can get a good rest with leg on ledge before roof and a toe hook/jam! Then pull over lip (forget the Rp in flake!) and just keep cranking! |
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| GDes | 3 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: no way E4. E3, just pumpy but safe. no need for the mystery wire, just leg it | βeta? | |
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βeta: no way E4. E3, just pumpy but safe. no need for the mystery wire, just leg it |
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| Andy Reeve | 6 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Why wouldn't I put the wire in? Because its pumpy enough as it is! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Why wouldn't I put the wire in? Because its pumpy enough as it is! |
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| Andy Reeve | 11 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: I went sans wire and lobbed - no problem. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I went sans wire and lobbed - no problem. |
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| JR | 21 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Not worth placing the wire, just pull up and race for the top. Hard for the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not worth placing the wire, just pull up and race for the top. Hard for the grade. |
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Route of Interest
Mortlock's Arete
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)