Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Full on at the grade! A boulder problem start f6A+ up a leaning rib leads to a ledge at 5m (or traverse from the left reducing the route grade to E2 5c). Pull through the notch in the roof with difficulty and finish up the wall on sloping holds. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1973.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fiend 1 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice. Boulder problem start is good fun, whilst the crux just after the ledge has to be one of the best moves on Stanage. Not sure of the significance of moving up using the broken pocket, I went up and down several times whilst arduously fiddling in some gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very nice. Boulder problem start is good fun, whilst the crux just after the ledge has to be one of the best moves on Stanage. Not sure of the significance of moving up using the broken pocket, I went up and down several times whilst arduously fiddling in some gear.
north country boy 14 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah pocket before lip is damaged and is now more use as a single finger mono! Bouldery move leaving the shelf using it though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yeah pocket before lip is damaged and is now more use as a single finger mono! Bouldery move leaving the shelf using it though!
Garan 23 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The "thin pocket" is very damaged. Just about get the ends of two fingers into. I think the crux is leaving the good ledge at 5m.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The "thin pocket" is very damaged. Just about get the ends of two fingers into. I think the crux is leaving the good ledge at 5m.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 30
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mordaunt

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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