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16m.

Rockfax Description
One of gritstone's greatest classics which is sadly showing its age. Start up the polished central crack before shuffling right to the base of the flake. Layback the broken nose to reach easier though sustained climbing and a rest below the final roof. The belly-flop direct finish is best, though a sneaky traverse left is an easier option. A high stepping direct start is a polished f6A and is out of keeping with the rest of the climb. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1949.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Hard Rock, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Eastern Grit Jamming, Stanage *** HVS's, The Peak: Past and Present, Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, World Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Get out on Rock, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, AMC Uni Ticklist, 50 of the Best, MUMC Ticklist, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Brown & Whillans Stanage, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, One Day Challenges: HVS-E4, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Stanage Plantation, On Peak Rock, Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Libby Peter's HVS Hit List, The Gritlist, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock, Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets., 2020 Trips, Stanage HVS Challenge, An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Jem's Time in the Peaks, Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3*, Hard Rock & Other Classics, Grit List, Peak District Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
glaramara 4 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Any mistake and you will get pinged off, no doubt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Any mistake and you will get pinged off, no doubt.
Gordon Stainforth 15 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Although the bellyflop mantel is classic, there's a neat way of doing it by using a very high foothold - it can hardly be described as 'cheating' because it's so natural.
 
Show beta
βeta: Although the bellyflop mantel is classic, there's a neat way of doing it by using a very high foothold - it can hardly be described as 'cheating' because it's so natural.
rdoug1as 30 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Loved it!!! Found it a little pumpy as I was a little out of shape when attempted. Isn't the beauty of the route the fact that it is "samey" all the way up? Physical laybacks and hanging off your fist style jams! Deserves all it's stars!
 
Show beta
βeta: Loved it!!! Found it a little pumpy as I was a little out of shape when attempted. Isn't the beauty of the route the fact that it is "samey" all the way up? Physical laybacks and hanging off your fist style jams! Deserves all it's stars!
truckmonkey 15 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: pumped at the top?? trying to place wires?? hang off the jams for a rest then mantle to glory. sorted
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: pumped at the top?? trying to place wires?? hang off the jams for a rest then mantle to glory. sorted
Pythonist 6 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Alun and I immediately had opposite opinions on this one. It deserves every star. Much nicer than left (and a few notches easier). For further practice on big-flake laybacking, see Surform and The Rasp at Higgar, which are almost as good.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Alun and I immediately had opposite opinions on this one. It deserves every star. Much nicer than left (and a few notches easier). For further practice on big-flake laybacking, see Surform and The Rasp at Higgar, which are almost as good.
Alun 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with gr above. While I know the route has a great history, I was ultimately a bit disappointed after finally getting round to doing it. The final mantle is definately the best bit - no cheating by going out left!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with gr above. While I know the route has a great history, I was ultimately a bit disappointed after finally getting round to doing it. The final mantle is definately the best bit - no cheating by going out left!
leon 24 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i rekon this climb is pretty sustained, you need to keep on the move, don't try to lace it. the moves are all pretty obvious, the only surprise is getting to the top and realizing that that's the hardest move, & on pumped arms!!! forget the belly flop and commando roll rubbish, make it a no knees mantle for full points.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i rekon this climb is pretty sustained, you need to keep on the move, don't try to lace it. the moves are all pretty obvious, the only surprise is getting to the top and realizing that that's the hardest move, & on pumped arms!!! forget the belly flop and commando roll rubbish, make it a no knees mantle for full points.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 360
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 347
Votes cast 314
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

John Peel

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dovedale)