One of gritstone's greatest classics which is sadly showing its age. Start up the polished central crack before shuffling right to the base of the flake. Layback the broken nose to reach easier though sustained climbing and a rest below the final roof. The belly-flop direct finish is best, though a sneaky traverse left is an easier option. A high stepping direct start is a polished f6A and is out of keeping with the rest of the climb. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown 1949.
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