Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

6m.

Rockfax Description
Trend right to climb the blunt rib in the centre of the slab. © Rockfax

FA. Greg Griffith 1985.

Ticklists

BMC Stanage The Red Circuit , The Red Circuit - Stanage , Grit Top Rope Solo

Feedback

User Date Notes
Horse 5 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Getting from the pebble to the top involves a high sloper and a smear to get the finishing move. For those of average, or less, stature this is going to be technically demanding. I'd give it 5c for sure.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Getting from the pebble to the top involves a high sloper and a smear to get the finishing move. For those of average, or less, stature this is going to be technically demanding. I'd give it 5c for sure.
Stuart S 24 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Being tall, I found this one very straightforward. Don't remember needing to make use of the pebble.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Being tall, I found this one very straightforward. Don't remember needing to make use of the pebble.
Nick Smith - Climbers 16 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A pleasant little route that makes good use of a crucial pebble. Not 5c! Seems much easier than Shard (HVS 5b) to the left.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A pleasant little route that makes good use of a crucial pebble. Not 5c! Seems much easier than Shard (HVS 5b) to the left.

Logged Ascents

181 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 22
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gangue Grooves

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)

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