Restricted Access

The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.

40m.

Rockfax Description
Excellent with good climbing after a slightly bold feeling start. Trend right up a grey slab then left to reach a vague crack (the same point can be reached from further right as well). Climb the crack up black rock studded with minerals, then traverse right across the slab above to reach a groove with a tree up which the route finishes. © Rockfax

FA. Doug Scott, Steve Read (some aid) 1964.

Ticklists

Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , 2023

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User Date Notes
neilthompson 24 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, quite tough and the gear is only just adequate enough in the first half.
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βeta: Excellent route, quite tough and the gear is only just adequate enough in the first half.
Richard 261 14 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Done it today. Some good climbing in a slightly wandering route. I didn't find the start hard. 2 stars maybe.
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βeta: Done it today. Some good climbing in a slightly wandering route. I didn't find the start hard. 2 stars maybe.
drcorbasisgod 16 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure where the 5b move (the start?) is but this climb is superb throughout. Highly recommended.
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βeta: Not sure where the 5b move (the start?) is but this climb is superb throughout. Highly recommended.
Bob Hassall 18 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent indeed and worth three stars therefore. Better than it looks.
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent indeed and worth three stars therefore. Better than it looks.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 81
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 72
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Joint Effort

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Staden Quarry)

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