Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

22m.

Rockfax Description
Excellent and underrated with some great positions - an Ellis's Eliminate for grown-ups. Swing along the lowest break then climb the fine upper arete - initially a bit bold. © Rockfax

FA. G.Dimmock 1965.

Ticklists

Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Aither 31 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely a hard Ellis eliminate. I\'d highly suggest this is HVS the run out after the vertical break goes into \" no fall \" zone for a few meters. Would not be ideal if your just about doing VS have done better protected HVS\'s
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βeta: Definitely a hard Ellis eliminate. I'd highly suggest this is HVS the run out after the vertical break goes into " no fall " zone for a few meters. Would not be ideal if your just about doing VS have done better protected HVS's
House of yuccas 11 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Hold your nerve on the traverse.
βeta?
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βeta: Hold your nerve on the traverse.
joemallia 17 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic! A perfect gritstone VS - it's got everything.
βeta?
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βeta: Fantastic! A perfect gritstone VS - it's got everything.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 77
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 67
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Martello Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Popular)

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