22m.

Rockfax Description
A totally committing layback up the left side of the superb arete. Side-runners should be avoided at all costs. From the starting block, take a deep breath, and sprint for the midway break. Thankfully things are easier above. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond 1972.

Ticklists

Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, World Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Ultimate E3 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, 50 of the Best, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Extreme 2018, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Dream Grit Ticklist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Big trad list, One Man and His Serotonin Levels

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ian Patterson 14 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Simon, thats because you're now old and sensible, steady E3 when you're young and stupid!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Simon, thats because you're now old and sensible, steady E3 when you're young and stupid!
UKB Shark 13 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'm going to stick my neck out and say I think this is E4. I have tried this a few times over the last 20 years but it wasn't till today that I got to the point that carrying on was safer than reversing. Cathartic. Approaching perfection.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm going to stick my neck out and say I think this is E4. I have tried this a few times over the last 20 years but it wasn't till today that I got to the point that carrying on was safer than reversing. Cathartic. Approaching perfection.
Stevie3ee 18 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: what gear goes in archangel before i do it this week?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: what gear goes in archangel before i do it this week?
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Totally agree! Don't stop, just keep motoring on up there until your stood on the first gear ledge. Look back down and be amazed at what you've just down. Perfect!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Totally agree! Don't stop, just keep motoring on up there until your stood on the first gear ledge. Look back down and be amazed at what you've just down. Perfect!
Ropeboy 26 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A true gritstone experience! Whatever you do don't stop.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A true gritstone experience! Whatever you do don't stop.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 59
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Toproped
Lead
Bouldered
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Adjudicator Wall

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Dovedale)
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