Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

8m.

Rockfax Description
The left edge of the slab has a bold high step to reach a good break and gear. Pass the bulge by a long reach then finish direct, or stride out right - slightly easier. © Rockfax

FA. Al Parker 1959.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Level 2 Peak Boulder Problems , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Slab

Feedback

User Date Notes
Duz Walker 21 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely, Kayakky in grade and height arguments, mats won't help you here though. I placed a blind cam and, fortunately as it turned out, didn't need it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely, Kayakky in grade and height arguments, mats won't help you here though. I placed a blind cam and, fortunately as it turned out, didn't need it.
Jus 6 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The 1989 Stanage guide shows the line finsishing up the arete (which is better), not out right. Really nice route, but probably nearer E2 5c than E1 5b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The 1989 Stanage guide shows the line finsishing up the arete (which is better), not out right. Really nice route, but probably nearer E2 5c than E1 5b.
Ropeboy 6 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Definatley feels exposed on the crux, a fall would see you tumbling down the hillside. The top is fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definatley feels exposed on the crux, a fall would see you tumbling down the hillside. The top is fine.

Logged Ascents

167 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 34
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Orang-outang

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stanage North)

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