Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

6m.

Rockfax Description
The right-hand side is harder and scarier to a tricky last move. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen.

Ticklists

John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Stanage Slab , Grit Top Rope Solo , Eastern Grit E1s

Feedback

User Date Notes
mjsisson 25 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Left and right edges feel like VS 5b at most. The centre line more like 5c and final sketchy move is great.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left and right edges feel like VS 5b at most. The centre line more like 5c and final sketchy move is great.
Charles Reade-Jahn 28 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I don't tihnk I found the right combination, top move was thin and felt like 5c! (Top roped)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I don't tihnk I found the right combination, top move was thin and felt like 5c! (Top roped)
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Only 5b if you find the right holdlets. 5c either side.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only 5b if you find the right holdlets. 5c either side.
lowersharpnose 6 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This route is uprotected above a bad landing. I went up about 2/3m Left of the right hand edge of the slab. Enjoyable and not harder than 5b, if that.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is uprotected above a bad landing. I went up about 2/3m Left of the right hand edge of the slab. Enjoyable and not harder than 5b, if that.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 22
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
George

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dovedale)

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