Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
Hard to grade and easier for the tall. Gain the blunt flake in the face from the left and make a dyno move to the lip. Keeping your feet low is easier. Can be done static. A direct start is the same grade but more sustained. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Stick It Tick List , Peak Bouldering - Eastern Grit bold-star up-problems - 7A+Bs , Dyno Hero UK , One Summer - Bouldering in the Peak , Peak Rock/18/A Boulder Primer , Consumed , Font-esque dans la PEAK , Memorable Climbs , Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade , Peak boulders , My Bouldering Ticklist , All the boulders , The grit list , Peak Bouldering Eastern Grit Top 30 , A Tall Order , Dream Grit Ticklist , Winter Grit Ticks , Peak Bouldering Top 50 , Sheff , Peak 200 , Peak bouldering 2021 6b - 7b+ and a bit of trad , Scrittle and CHoss , Stone Cold Classics , Pre-Font Ticklist , Giants of the North (Ollie & George Summer '22 Dirt-Bag Trip) , Hard Grit Classics Only , JDs Gritstone Guide , Crushing 7Bs , Scott and Seery's rampage of 7s , High balls??? , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do! , Freshers trip , Sheffield , Peak Blocs 2024 , Mix of bits , Road to 7c

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
Votes cast 97
Votes cast 97
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
HMS Daring

Grade: f7B+ ***
(Birchen Edge)

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