Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

5m.

Rockfax Description
Always feels precarious no matter how often you climb it. Feels high at the finish. © Rockfax

FA. Gabe Reagan 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , BMC Stanage The Red Circuit , The Red Circuit - Stanage , Peak Bouldering - bold-star Eastern-Grit sub 7s , The Real Thing Ticklist , Plantation sub 7as , Peak Rock/18/A Boulder Primer , Plantation Red Circuit (Rockfax Peak Bouldering 2014) , ULMC Classics , ICAS Climbing Club , Font-esque dans la PEAK , Rock cats getting strong , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Peak Boulder Projects , Vladimir punterin , Most Popular Peak District Climbs per Grade , Stanage Plantation Rockfax Red Circuit , All the boulders , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , The grit list , Peak Bouldering Eastern Grit Top 30 , York University Students path to greatness , Peak Arete Boulders , Peak 200 , Peak Bouldering Top 50 , Peak Bouldering Graded List 6A , Sheff , Level 1 Peak Boulder Problems , Carlos Projects , Peak trip , Rebs' boulder season wishlist , Pre-Font Ticklist , Punters Wannabee , Stan Plan Arêtes , JDs Gritstone Guide , Stanage V100 , High balls??? , An overly ambitious list , *** Peak Bouldering up to 6B , Freshers trip , Peak Slabs for the People , Peak Blocs 2024 , Arete-ucation , My projects , The UK's Best Bouldering — Top Peak District Problems Below 7A

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jus 23 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I used to lap this route years ago every time I went to Stanage before a big fall on a well known arete route. I did for the first time since then (4 years) yesterday and it blew dem cobwebs out. Felt wonderful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I used to lap this route years ago every time I went to Stanage before a big fall on a well known arete route. I did for the first time since then (4 years) yesterday and it blew dem cobwebs out. Felt wonderful.
MNA123 28 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Just done this in the drizzle with 3 mats and two spotters. Done this way it is def just a highball 5b. Fell off first go when taking my hand out of pocket, 2nd time got it in the bag. Lovely problem. It now gets 5c in new stanage guide ,altho 5b seems rite to me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just done this in the drizzle with 3 mats and two spotters. Done this way it is def just a highball 5b. Fell off first go when taking my hand out of pocket, 2nd time got it in the bag. Lovely problem. It now gets 5c in new stanage guide ,altho 5b seems rite to me.
Morgan Woods 29 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Not too fluttery....o/s'd it after a mate fell off at the pocket so i was glad to keep it together....spot on for 5b....not sure if it warrants an adjectival grade.
Show beta
βeta: Not too fluttery....o/s'd it after a mate fell off at the pocket so i was glad to keep it together....spot on for 5b....not sure if it warrants an adjectival grade.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 23 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: What a boulder problem!!! Its a perfect line and breathtaking to climb (whether thats to do with the adrenaline from the height or the wonder of the moves) - an absolute MUST.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a boulder problem!!! Its a perfect line and breathtaking to climb (whether thats to do with the adrenaline from the height or the wonder of the moves) - an absolute MUST.
crazydiamond 14 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Who cares wot the grade is.... all i can say is its a magnificent route/problem.... the friction has to be good and you have to be able to trust your feet... my 2 mates couldnt do it because they didnt trust the friction... I think every one jus breathes out with such a releif after topping out tho... GREAT STUFF
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Who cares wot the grade is.... all i can say is its a magnificent route/problem.... the friction has to be good and you have to be able to trust your feet... my 2 mates couldnt do it because they didnt trust the friction... I think every one jus breathes out with such a releif after topping out tho... GREAT STUFF
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Very lovely, definitely not a boulder problem, defintely harder and scarier than some e1s and 2s. nearly fluffed it with my foot in the pocket and was shaking once i got over the top :o)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very lovely, definitely not a boulder problem, defintely harder and scarier than some e1s and 2s. nearly fluffed it with my foot in the pocket and was shaking once i got over the top :o)
Jus 31 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: one of my favourite routes. only a boulder problem if done with mats. quite easy really- only 1 hard move,
βeta?
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βeta: one of my favourite routes. only a boulder problem if done with mats. quite easy really- only 1 hard move,
daveayton 19 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: My first ever route on Grit - or in England for that matter! Beautiful climbing, not hard but a good intro to Stanage aretes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first ever route on Grit - or in England for that matter! Beautiful climbing, not hard but a good intro to Stanage aretes
daveayton 19 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: My first ever route on Grit - or in England for that matter! Beautiful climbing, not hard but a good intro to Stanage aretes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first ever route on Grit - or in England for that matter! Beautiful climbing, not hard but a good intro to Stanage aretes
ap 20 Feb, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic, worth a mention in PGE, but how anyone wants to give it an adjective grade i have no idea. Its not very high, and once you are at the break, it is all over.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic, worth a mention in PGE, but how anyone wants to give it an adjective grade i have no idea. Its not very high, and once you are at the break, it is all over.
Chris the Tall 14 Nov, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: HVS 5b. Deserves a proper grade given its height. My advice is to try jumping off from half height a few times to get your confidence up!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: HVS 5b. Deserves a proper grade given its height. My advice is to try jumping off from half height a few times to get your confidence up!
Robo 30 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Quite bold. My mate fell off the bottom and hurt his ankle. So don't do that.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite bold. My mate fell off the bottom and hurt his ankle. So don't do that.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
High f5
Mid f5
Low f5
High f4+
Mid f4+
Low f4+
Votes cast 181
Votes cast 203
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Microbe

Grade: f5+ ***
(Stanage North)

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