Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
Independent and excellent. Climb the left side of the arete up to a crucial pocket and gear. Use this to gain the break above then make steep pulls into the hanging niche. Once established pull steeply up the flying edge above in a spectacular position. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage HVS Challenge , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - Rockfax 21 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I am pretty sure the line is on the left of the arete at this grade, using the pocket for two runners (wire behind pebble and medium cam). Once at the pocket moving back to the arete would be bizarre but that is the only gear and the move up the slab really nice and about 5a.
Show beta
βeta: I am pretty sure the line is on the left of the arete at this grade, using the pocket for two runners (wire behind pebble and medium cam). Once at the pocket moving back to the arete would be bizarre but that is the only gear and the move up the slab really nice and about 5a.

Logged Ascents

266 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 42
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zapple Left-hand

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Yarncliffe)

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