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10m.

Rockfax Description
The leaning widening crack is climbed by strenuous jamming to a gruesome shelving exit where the crack flares. Gritstone brutality at its best, it can be a hideous affair, unless you are a proficient jammer with big leathery hands! © Rockfax

FA. Clive Rowland 1962. (Pete Crew according to some)..

Ticklists

BMC On-Peak Rock: Jamming tests, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, 50 cracks to Squamish, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, WideBoyz Crack School, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Proper Cracks UK, Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown, Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon, Peak District Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 12 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: If this gets up-graded to E2, then it'll be a disgrace. Very enjoyable and not particularly powerful as long as you know how to jam efficiently.
βeta?
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βeta: If this gets up-graded to E2, then it'll be a disgrace. Very enjoyable and not particularly powerful as long as you know how to jam efficiently.
Duz Walker 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Respect is due Mr Rowland, sir. Just exactly how deservedly pished did you get?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Respect is due Mr Rowland, sir. Just exactly how deservedly pished did you get?
Neil Ireson 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One for those into perverse jamming pleasure and pain. I know a few climbers who generally onsight upto E3/4 who've failed on this route. It's a classic gritstone HVS 5b, far too hard to be an E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One for those into perverse jamming pleasure and pain. I know a few climbers who generally onsight upto E3/4 who've failed on this route. It's a classic gritstone HVS 5b, far too hard to be an E1.
pdhu 24 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with the above comment because I wrote it.
βeta?
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βeta: I agree with the above comment because I wrote it.
Garan 8 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this today with a broken wrist. Bad move!! To quote John Allen, "Tape up children".
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed this today with a broken wrist. Bad move!! To quote John Allen, "Tape up children".

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 68
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 62
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lime Street Direct

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)