Rockfax Description
The leaning widening crack is climbed by strenuous jamming to a gruesome shelving exit where the crack flares. Gritstone brutality at its best, it can be a hideous affair, unless you are a proficient jammer with big leathery hands! © Rockfax
FA. Clive Rowland 1962. (Pete Crew according to some)..
Ticklists
BMC On-Peak Rock: Jamming tests , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles , 50 cracks to Squamish , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , WideBoyz Crack School , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Proper Cracks UK , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E2 , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Hardest E1s on grit , Best Forgotten Art , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ed edwards | 30 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: You will lose much skin. Great grate climb… safe but unexpectedly brutal. | βeta? | |
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βeta: You will lose much skin. Great grate climb… safe but unexpectedly brutal. |
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| Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 12 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: If this gets up-graded to E2, then it'll be a disgrace. Very enjoyable and not particularly powerful as long as you know how to jam efficiently. | βeta? | |
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βeta: If this gets up-graded to E2, then it'll be a disgrace. Very enjoyable and not particularly powerful as long as you know how to jam efficiently. |
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| Duz Walker | 24 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Respect is due Mr Rowland, sir. Just exactly how deservedly pished did you get? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Respect is due Mr Rowland, sir. Just exactly how deservedly pished did you get? |
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| Neil Ireson | 24 May, 2005 |
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βeta: One for those into perverse jamming pleasure and pain. I know a few climbers who generally onsight upto E3/4 who've failed on this route. It's a classic gritstone HVS 5b, far too hard to be an E1. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: One for those into perverse jamming pleasure and pain. I know a few climbers who generally onsight upto E3/4 who've failed on this route. It's a classic gritstone HVS 5b, far too hard to be an E1. |
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| pdhu | 24 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: I agree with the above comment because I wrote it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I agree with the above comment because I wrote it. |
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| Garan | 8 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Climbed this today with a broken wrist. Bad move!! To quote John Allen, "Tape up children". | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed this today with a broken wrist. Bad move!! To quote John Allen, "Tape up children". |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
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Hugo de Vries
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Turningstone Edge)