Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
From Inaccessible Crack, step left above the roof and climb to the break. Finish up the precarious right-trending scoop. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft 1984.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ropeboy 31 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This route is okay till the top move which feels bold. Take a good look at it from the top and spot your finishing holds. Requires trust in your footwork.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is okay till the top move which feels bold. Take a good look at it from the top and spot your finishing holds. Requires trust in your footwork.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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High E5
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Votes cast 36
High 6a
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Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Indoor Fisherman

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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