Rockfax Description
Devious but also excellent. Follow the crack sprouting from the right edge of the recess to its end then traverse left to finish as for the Direct variation. © Rockfax
FA. Harry Kelly 1915.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins. , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 2 Sep |
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βeta: Brilliant route and better than High Neb Buttress. Varied and exciting. Nothing very big needed for top crack (a big blue and a yellow camalot). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route and better than High Neb Buttress. Varied and exciting. Nothing very big needed for top crack (a big blue and a yellow camalot). |
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| Nico R | 16 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: A friend #3 is big enough to protect the top crack. Without it there's also smaller gear on the left | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A friend #3 is big enough to protect the top crack. Without it there's also smaller gear on the left |
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| Jon Greengrass | 17 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: nice route, interesting start, hand or feet traverse the break and take something really big for the top crack 5 inches plus, which is over in a couple of layback moves. My handy Big Bro 1 fitted lovely. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: nice route, interesting start, hand or feet traverse the break and take something really big for the top crack 5 inches plus, which is over in a couple of layback moves. My handy Big Bro 1 fitted lovely. |
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| Richard | 19 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route. If you get the sequence right for the first moves, it's pretty straightforward, although balancy. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route. If you get the sequence right for the first moves, it's pretty straightforward, although balancy. |
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| Si dH | 13 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Good route, althoug hpretty easy for VS I think. A tricky move in each crack but all bomber-protected with some cams. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route, althoug hpretty easy for VS I think. A tricky move in each crack but all bomber-protected with some cams. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 9 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: A far more interesting route than the Direct variant. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A far more interesting route than the Direct variant. |
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| gav p | 8 May, 2003 |
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βeta: In response to Jon, from memory, there's a bomber friend 4 in the first bit of the deep finishing crack. You were probably trying to place it too high. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: In response to Jon, from memory, there's a bomber friend 4 in the first bit of the deep finishing crack. You were probably trying to place it too high. |
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| Jamie B | 7 May, 2003 |
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βeta: Initial crack might be pushing 5a, but overall a safe and solid climb at the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Initial crack might be pushing 5a, but overall a safe and solid climb at the grade. |
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| gav p | 15 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Yep, probably worth the three stars. Hard move to start, move up and shuffle across the foot traverse easily. Spectacular and strenuous finish, but well protected with big gear (ie friend 4). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Yep, probably worth the three stars. Hard move to start, move up and shuffle across the foot traverse easily. Spectacular and strenuous finish, but well protected with big gear (ie friend 4). |
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| bone | 14 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: theres a hidden step to help you on your way up the final crack. agree with the above - a quality climb. | ||
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βeta: theres a hidden step to help you on your way up the final crack. agree with the above - a quality climb. |
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| Skyfall | 18 Mar, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Superb route - 3 star in my book - as neil says, take something very big to protect that top crack, then lay back and enjoy :) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Superb route - 3 star in my book - as neil says, take something very big to protect that top crack, then lay back and enjoy :) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
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Gabriel and the Pearly Gates
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)